Category Archives: Black Hills

Black Hills Roadtrip 2026: Part II

Day 3: Friday: Black Hills

Keystone

Under Canvas Mount Rushmore

We woke up early after a night of rather uncomfortable sleep in the Under Canvas safari tent. It had been an unseasonably cold night for June but fortunately we had a wood-burning stove in the tent for heat.

Our 13-year-old had come to our tent since his kid’s tent had no heat and we managed to sleep three to a king-sized bed.

We were not about to spend the outrageous prices that the glamping resort charged for food so we quickly showered and dressed, then got in the truck to head to our next destination: Wind Cave National Park.

It was a very nice morning for the drive and we pulled off at a scenic area with a profile view of George Washington.

It was interesting to see the surface features of the sculpture, such as the way in which the eye has a section of protruding stone to give the illusion of light hitting the cornea, and the noticeable cracks that will eventually cause features like the nose to fall away. Fortunately, the sculptures will remain intact and well cared-for for many centuries.

Custer

Miner’s Cup

Along the way we stopped off for coffee and some breakfast. We found a terrific coffee and breakfast spot called Miner’s Cup. We ordered three breakfast burritos to go with our coffees and they were so good we made a return stop the next day.

We drove south from Custer and about an hour later arrived at the Wind Cave visitor center for our 9:20 AM Natural Entrance tour.

Wind Cave National Park

We entered the visitor center and actually spent about 20 minutes in the wrong line. We already had cave tour reservations so we could have just gone straight to the front desk and picked up our passes. They didn’t mark the lines with signs so it wasn’t our fault.

At any rate we picked up our passes and walked out to the waiting area with plenty of time to spare.

While sitting outside we played some Oregon Trail on my phone. It’s the same game I played as a kid on an Apple II.

Once the full tour group and the ranger had arrived, we were ready to start the walk to the cave entrance.

The natural cave entrance is only about a foot in diameter and would be easy to miss (I certainly would not have noticed it if we hadn’t been led there by the ranger). A gentle wind (hence Wind Cave) blows into or out of the cave depending on the external air pressure relative to the cave. The park service hung scarves over the entry gap to help visitors see the movement of air from the cave.

Wind cave is most famous for the boxwork formations and this cave has more box work than any other cave in the world.

Boxwork is formed when cracks in the surrounding rock layers are filled in with calcite, which is a harder material than the surrounding limestone. Over the course of millions of years the limestone dissolved away leaving the intricate patterns of calcite on the ceilings and walls.

We had a good time in the cave, although I would have been happy to take longer and see more of the cave than the hour and a half allowed.

After the cave tour we decided to enjoy some of the surface areas of Wind Cave. Wind Cave has been a national park since 1903 when it was established as the sixth national park, and the landscape is the best protected wilderness in the Black Hills.

It is the home to bison herds, pronghorn, and thousands of prairie dogs.

I took the Cold Brook Canyon Trail from the road for about a mile until I came to a massive prairie dog town in a large meadow.

Prairie Dogs in Wind Cave NP

After the short hike, we drove north from Wind Cave into Custer State Park.

Custer State Park

Custer State Park ought to be a national park. It has more to see and do than most national parks, is full of wildlife, and has some of the Black Hills best scenery.

Originally our plan was to go straight to the Sylvan Lake area and hike the Black Elk Peak trail, but we just couldn’t skip by the Wildlife Loop. We were happier with the revised plan.

Wildlife Loop

The Wildlife Loop is an 18-mile loop drive that leads through habitat for bison, pronghorns, deer, and donkeys. Yes, donkeys. Feral donkeys that are the descendants of animals left in the park by miners over a hundred years ago.

We first encountered a large bison herd that included many active calves. The calves were playing and butting heads with other calves.

Bison Calves in Custer State Park

After watching the bison we continued on until we found the donkeys down in a section of land shaded by cottonwood trees.

The donkeys range in age from old nags to young colts. Some are friendly and some are temperamental. They not surprisingly show more interest to those people who come bearing carrots and other snacks. We brought nothing but our friendliness, which made us less popular.

After petting the donkeys we continued onward and saw some pronghorns.

I got a few good photos of a grazing pronghorn near the end of the loop.

After enjoying the loop drive it was time for lunch. I had made reservations for dinner at 6 PM at the Sylvan Lake Lodge, but we were hungry now and the Game Lodge was just a couple miles away. We decided to go there instead.

Game Lodge Dining Room

The Game Lodge offered buffet lunch, but we opted for burgers and mac ‘n cheese. My burger was delicious but Shelley and Evan weren’t crazy about their mac ‘n cheese dinner plates. Burgers tend to be more reliably good.

While eating lunch we played more Oregon Trail. I showed Shelley and Evan how to win.

The Needles Highway

The Needles are an incredible geologic feature of the park and the highway passes slowly through some of the best scenery. The road narrows to one lane in many areas including several tunnels.

Shelley was nervous driving my truck on the narrow, winding road so I took the wheel after a stop at an overlook. I drove onward from there to our next stop: Sylvan Lake.

Sylvan Lake

Upon entering the Sylvan Lake parking area we found it disappointingly crowded. We had wanted to take the short trail around the very pretty lake, but Shelley rightly said we should move on to a less busy place.

I stopped at the very nice Sylvan Lake Lodge and we took a couple distant photos of the lake.

After our brief stop, we were ready to go back to the tent to rest a bit and decide on our dinner options.

Keystone Pub Grub

We let Evan choose the dinner spot for the night and he chose Keystone Pub Grub which was just down the hill from Under Canvas in Keystone.

They are right next to an arcade called Sprockets, but Evan wasn’t really interested in it. The food was very meh, but they did serve beer. I ordered brisket mac n’ cheese this time and it wasn’t very good.

Under Canvas Mount Rushmore

Afterward we were ready to go back to UC to try out the evening s’mores. The resort had only a few fire pits for the entire resort and the s’more setup was kind of stupid.

They were repackaging Hershey’s chocolate in their own packaging and everyone had to take turns at the few fire pits. A kid was reaching his dirty hands into the shared marshmallow jar.

Yeah…

We at least had a better fire in the stove that night.

And I got some photos of the local wildlife around the tent.

Black Hills Roadtrip 2026: Part I

The Black Hills of South Dakota are a unique place. They are chock full of natural and historic places, and are a huge part of the American story in a year in which we’re celebrating the semiquincentennial year of the United States: America 250.

We had a lot of reasons to make a road trip to the Black Hills in June of 2026:

1) To explore places we have never been to on prior trips.

2) To revisit some sites with our now 13-year-old son that he had only visited once as a 6-month old baby.

3) To enjoy the great American roadtrip with some out-of-way and out-of-the-ordinary tourist stops along the way.

    4) And finally, to see if the Black Hills might be a place to open a future campground business we hope to pursue in the next few years.

    Day 1: Wednesday: The Drive to Cheyenne, Wyoming

    We decided to start the journey with a Wednesday afternoon drive up to Cheyenne, Wyoming after work to better position ourselves for the roadtrip the following day. By spending a night in Cheyenne we’d bypass the traffic in the Denver metro and give us two extra hours to explore.

    The 2-hour drive north on the I-25 from our home we have done dozens of times, but since it was our intention to take our time, we made a stop at the Buc-ee’s in Berthoud, Colorado and had dinner at one of my favorite restaurants in Colorado: Nordy’s in Loveland.

    At Buc-ees we picked up some road trip snacks: glazed almonds, pecans, and cashews, cinnamon-roll frosted pretzels, etc. We brought our Blue cooler and could put anything that might need to be kept cool within (like the chocolate Overbites). And, on a Wednesday evening, it wasn’t even crazily busy within the store.

    We’ve made stops at Nordy’s on a bunch of roadtrip vacations over the years and I also enjoy walking in the door, seeing the Western decor, and smelling the delicious BBQ. Since it’s only about 30 miles from Nordy’s to Cheyenne, we also could have a beer with our dinner.

    I ordered the Carolina pulled pork sandwich with corn fritters and it was delicious as usual. Nordy’s is one of those places I’ll genuinely miss if we leave Colorado.

    Earlier this year I signed up for the Marriott Bonvoy Chase Card. And because we spent the $3000 within the first three nights, I received five free nights at Marriott branded hotels.

    We used two nights at the Marriott in Breckenridge and I used another free night at the Fairfield Inn in Cheyenne, Wyoming.

    It’s a nice new hotel on the southwest side of the city. The room was clean and comfortable and the breakfast the next morning was also good.

    The hotel is across the street from train tracks and trains are frequently passing by throughout the day and night. I called ahead when I booked to request a room on the backside of the hotel which faces a parking area and open land. Some of the reviews mention train noise, but I can say the back of the hotel is very quiet.

    This is a photo from our room on the 4th floor. I would certainly stay there again, especially with Bonvoy points.

    Day 2: Thursday: Cheyenne to the Black Hills via the Nebraska Panhandle

    When I made plans for the roadtrip I decided it would be interesting to take a route further east instead of our typical route directly north through Wyoming.

    We would make the second day all about the journey and not the destination.

    This would be a day that would see us on the road early, and going to sleep late. We ate a hot breakfast in the hotel then got out on the road.

    Holiday Park Big Boy Locomotive

    The first stop of the day was in Cheyenne, Wyoming itself. We are train aficionados (especially my 13-year-old Evan) and the chance to see a Big Boy locomotive was something we were not going to pass up.

    The Union Pacific Railroad company built the Big Boy steam engines in the 1940s to run between Cheyenne, Wyoming and Ogden, Utah. They are still the largest locomotives ever built.

    Only a few Big Boy engines still exist and I’m aware of only one that is still running. The one at Holiday Park in Cheyenne has been idle since the 1960s. But they are absolutely huge and well worth seeing.

    The engine is 132 feet long with eight drive wheels on both sides. The tender is by itself as large as a modern diesel engine.

    After spending some time walking around the engine and taking photos, we returned to my truck to start off for the next destination (with a stop for coffee at a Ziggi’s in Cheyenne before leaving town).

    Scott’s Bluff National Monument

    We drove northeast from Cheyenne and crossed the Nebraska state line to make a visit to Scott’s Bluff National Monument.

    There are two interesting reasons to visit Scott’s Bluff.

    First, the bluff itself stands about 800 feet above the surrounding prairie and offers distant views of the surrounding bluffs, the North Platte river, and the city of Scottsbluff, NE. There are numerous scenic trails to explore from the summit.

    Second, is the bluff’s significance to Oregon Trail pioneers. When the pioneers were traveling in wagon trains for over the two thousand miles, they did so at a time when road signs and GPS were a distant dream. Instead, they noted their progress by passing notable geographic landmarks.

    Scott’s Bluff was a passageway for the wagon trains as the journeyed west.

    First we walked along the Oregon trail path which has conestoga wagons on display (one with faux oxen), giving a sense of what the wagons would have once looked like passing over the same ground.

    Afterward we drove to the top of the bluff to do some short hikes (I also ran down a section and ran back up to exercise my legs before we continued on with the drive). The bluff top is fairly extensive and the trails lead all the way to the base if you want to skip the drive.

    Since we had limited time and a big day planned, after about an hour we needed to move on to our next stop: Chimney Rock.

    Chimney Rock National Historic Site

    We drove a section of highway between Scott’s Bluff and Chimney Rock along the same route that the Oregon Trail would have traveled in the reverse direction (we were traveling southeast and the Oregon trail traveled northwest).

    Like Scott’s Bluff, Chimney Rock was an important landmark on the Oregon Trail. And this landmark is so significant it is featured on the Nebraska license plate and in the game Oregon Trail.

    There are two areas to visit at Chimney Rock: The Nebraska State Historical Society run museum and trails, and the privately owned Walk to the Rock.

    We first visited the state park section which is more distant from the landmark but includes the museum. Chimney Rock is a historic site because the Oregon Trail pioneers used it as a landmark and also engraved their names on the sandstone (but you can’t get close enough to the monument to see the engravings).

    After visiting the museum we proceeded to the next section of the monument which was only opened a few years ago: Walk to the Rock.

    Walk to the Rock is just a short half mile drive up from the museum parking lot and allows you to view Chimney Rock from much better vantage points. You still can’t approach any closer than a couple hundred feet, but you can see more of the geologic details of this iconic landmark.

    You will absolutely want to visit Walk to the Rock as the views are simply much better and provide different viewing angles as well.

    Alliance, Nebraska

    After an hour and a half at Chimney Rock we needed to keep moving. We needed to find a place to have a picnic lunch and I found Laing Park in Alliance, Nebraska. All we needed was a quiet spot with picnic tables and that is what we found.

    The park had a nice lake and was very quiet, but we were a little disappointed by the amount of litter left behind by someone’s birthday party.

    We stopped to look at some neat ducks by the lakeside. One appeared to be a wood duck.

    Carhenge

    The real reason for proceeding to Alliance, Nebraska was to see a famous tourist attraction that mimics Stonehenge in England, but using old cars: Carhenge.

    Carhenge helps draw tourists to Alliance, Nebraska and it is really a cool scale model of the ancient Druid monument.

    We walked around the car structures, and the oddball dinosaur and other monsters on the site. We wanted to visit the gift shop, but there was a pretty bad odor inside so we decided to just get back on the road. We still had a lot to do that day.

    Chadron, Nebraska

    Driving north from Alliance, Nebraska the terrain begins to change from the Sandhills region of Nebraska into the rugged southern end of the Black Hills. I wanted to stop at Chadron State Park (and it would have made a prettier lunch spot), but we were running short of time and needed to make a stop at the local Walmart for a few supplies.

    With the shopping done it was time to leave Nebraska behind and cross the state line into South Dakota.

    The Black Hills

    The South Dakota Black Hills are both a mountain range and a major cultural and historical region that defines western South Dakota and northeastern Wyoming.

    We had a busy itinerary planned for our time in the Black Hills over the next several days.

    Under Canvas Mount Rushmore

    I mentioned that my wife Shelley and I want to eventually open a glamping business and we thought it would be fun idea to spend a few mights at the biggest glamping chain in the US: Under Canvas.

    I will have a lot to say about our experience here in a subsequent post (overpriced and overall bad), but I’ll just say in this post that we were staying in a Safari Tent with an additional Kid’s Tent.

    After we got checked in and put our luggage in the tent we were hungry and drove to Hill City for dinner.

    Prairie Dog Taproom, Hill City

    The guy who checked us into our tent at Under Canvas recommended the Prairie Dog Taproom in Hill City. The food was good, but it was also rather difficult to order because everything was done via phone and text message. I felt like we needed a user guide for the restraunt when all we wanted was some cold beers and a pizza.

    They did have friendly staff and a lot of games to play while eating. The waitress told us all about her life and asked us for personal advice after just meeting us. We said what we always say: You do you.

    Mount Rushmore National Memorial

    The final stop of the night was probably the most important for us in this year of the semiquincentennial: Mount Rushmore.

    We visited Mount Rushmore on the previous visits in 2013 and 2020, but we felt we should visit again, this time at night for the evening program with the lighting ceremony.

    We had to make a quick getaway from the Prairie Dog Taphouse conversation to make sure we could get over to Mount Rushmore in time to get in line for ice cream. They serve an original recipe that was Thomas Jefferson’s own and it is so very good.

    After eating our ice cream we walked over to the gift shop for much needed sweat shirts. We were cold and under-dressed for a night at the monunent. The Black Hills were relatively cool (60s and low 70s F) during our trip and it was in the 40s F during the evening lighting ceremony.

    The lighting ceremony was quite nice. A ranger spoke about why he chose to become a park ranger, there was a video about the American experience, and finally all of the military vets and gold star families were called down from the audience to the stage to lower the flag.

    The illumination of the memorial was as good as I had hoped.

    Afterward we headed back to our glamping tent for the night. We got to sleep at about 11 PM after a long, but fun day.

    Black Hills and Badlands, June 2020

    Black Hills and Badlands, June 2020

    In June of 2020 we shook off the shackles of the pandemic to hit the road to South Dakota for fun in the Black Hills and Badlands. Read on…

    • Highlights
      • Mount Rushmore NM
      • Crazy Horse Monument and Museum
      • Custer State Park
      • Firehouse Brewing Company, Rapid City, SD
      • Cosmos Mystery Area
      • Badlands National Park
      • 1880s Train
    • Lowlights
      • Holiday Inn Express, Keystone, SD
      • Badlands Saloon and Grill, Wall, SD