Category Archives: Outdoors

Colorado, Hiking

Return to Mount Elbert

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In 2022, my son Daniel (then 16 years old) and I decided to hike Mount Elbert, the highest mountain in Colorado and the highest mountain in the Rocky Mountains at 14,440 ft. We began the hike a bit later than we intended (arriving at the trailhead at 7AM), and made our way to near the summit at almost noon.

When we were achingly close to the end (around a quarter mile and about 100 vertical feet) we were forced to turn around due to gathering storm clouds and visible lightning. Daniel pointed to the summit, only a short distance away and said “It’s right there!”, but I would not relent in refusing to allow us to finish the hike.

“The mountain will still be here”, I said, “but if we continue we may not.”

This year, we decided, would be the year we would officially stand atop the highest point in Colorado. But not just Daniel and I. We decided to make it family hike as part of a summer camping trip in July.

But just days before we were to depart for that July trip, the trail was closed due to the Willow wildfire that was burning in the Leadville area. It appeared that Elbert and the highest point in Colorado would remain a goal for yet another year.

Then as September rolled around, Daniel and I decided to just take a Saturday and go. The wildfire was out and the trail was open. The weather conditions were good. Why wait another year?

So we made a late Friday night drive to Leadville and spent about four hours sleeping so that we would not fail to be on the trail by 5:30 AM.

Despite the hastiness of our departure, I made sure we had everything we could possibly need to ensure success. Rain jackets, headlamps, hiking poles, stocking caps and gloves, first aid supplies, extra sunscreen, and plenty of snacks and water. We were not going to have a reason to have to turn around if I could control it. Our backpacks were a bit heavy, but we could handle it.

We started the hike in the darkness using headlamps to find our way. Starting in the dark was always our plan. If we could make it to the summit mid-morning there was even less of a chance that afternoon rain might turn us around. And Colorado mountain weather in early fall is notoriously unpredictable. A sunny day can change in an instant.

A scenic view of a sunset over mountainous terrain, with a sloped hillside in the foreground and a vibrant sky filled with wispy clouds.
A panoramic view of mountains with a mix of rocky terrain and forested areas, showcasing autumn colors and a clear blue sky.
A group of hikers on a rocky mountain peak, surrounded by expansive views of mountain ranges and a cloudy sky.
A person taking a selfie while hiking on a mountain trail, with a scenic view of valleys and mountains in the background, showcasing a clear sky and colorful foliage.
A person standing on a rocky mountain trail with hiking poles, overlooking a scenic view of valleys and lakes under a cloudy sky.
A small creature, possibly a pika, foraging among rocky terrain and sparse vegetation.
A rocky hillside with sparse vegetation under a blue sky with some clouds.
A panoramic view of rugged mountains under a blue sky, showcasing a mix of dry terrain and patches of greenery.

We saw the sun rise just as we arrived at timberline. Timberline in Colorado always seems to occur at 12,000 ft, which I find an interesting biological/geographical rule of thumb. My watch altimeter marked 12,000 as we took a brief moment to admire the sunrise and eat some of our breakfast snacks.

It was now 6:30 AM. Having covered the two fairly steep miles in 1.5 hours, mostly in the dark, we were perfectly on schedule. But the next 3 miles were going to be much more challenging.

Continuing onward, we made relatively good time and were at 13,000 feet. Once past 13,000 feet, the thin air really becomes a factor and progress slows considerably. I call it the “Go Slow Zone”. Ten steps, catch your breath, ten more steps, catch your breath again….

At about 8:45 AM, we finally arrived at the top of a false summit where the actual summit came into view. It was the very spot where we had turned around in 2022. But unlike 2022, storm clouds were still hours away and the path the the summit was right ahead of us.

It took only about five minutes to reach the summit from that spot. It only added to the feeling of disbelief over how close we truly were. But a least we could now say we were standing on the highest point in Colorado.

A young male hiker standing on a rocky mountain peak with a scenic view of hills and valleys in the background.
Person standing on a mountain peak, holding trekking poles, with a panoramic view of rocky mountains and blue sky in the background.
A metal survey marker embedded in a rocky surface, featuring engravings that read 'U.S. Coast & Geodetic Survey' and directional indicators.
A group of people gathered on a rocky mountain summit, surrounded by vast, rugged mountain ranges and a cloudy sky.
A person sitting on a rocky mountain summit, gazing at scenic views of valleys and peaks under a blue sky.
A panoramic view from a mountain peak overlooking a vast landscape of rolling hills, forests, and a distant mountain range under a clear blue sky.
Scenic view from a mountain summit overlooking a vast valley, with hikers traversing rocky terrain and a lake visible in the distance under a partly cloudy sky.
A panoramic view of rugged mountain terrain under a clear blue sky, showcasing peaks, valleys, and patches of green foliage.
Panoramic view of rugged mountain landscape under a blue sky with scattered clouds.

We had arrived on teh summit at about 9:00 AM, taking only 3.5 hours to achieve the summit. Not an easy task. Literally no one passed us on the way and we passed dozens of other hikers.

But we were feeling the exertion a lot more. The drive to finish the hike and reach the summit had led us to make the 4,500 foot vertical ascent faster than we would normally go. And truthfully, we were feeling it.

Starting down, we began to really appreciate just how steep the trail really is, something we had largely ignored on the way up. The poles helped steady us, but our knees began to tire. Finally, near a rock pile at 13,000 feet we took a genuine break.

A bird camouflaged among rocky terrain, blending seamlessly with its surroundings.
A rocky landscape with scattered stones and a distant view of mountains and a valley under a cloudy sky.
A person sitting on a rock in a rocky, mountainous landscape, surrounded by sparse vegetation and distant hills under a blue sky.
Two hikers pose for a selfie on a mountain trail, with rocky terrain and a clear blue sky in the background.

I found some ptarmigans amid the rocks and as the first photo indicates, their plumage blends in amazingly well with the surroundings. We took time to eat more of our remaining snacks an rested a good while out of the wind, with several miles yet to descend.

It took another two hours to finally return to my truck as we slowed to a more leisurely pace in the forested area near the trailhead.

My watch said 12:30 PM when we finished the hike. We were unusually beat. The hike provided great scenery and we had accomplished our goal, but we had really pushed hard and were aching more than we had in 2022. Perhaps some of that is the four years I’ve aged since then, but Daniel was feeling pretty exhausted as well.

Daniel and I had lunch together in Leadville and contemplated what our next goal might be. Another 14er? Or a chill lake hike with the family? Whatever it may be, it will be great. And we’ll take our time.

Black Hills, Hiking, South Dakota, Travel, Wyoming

Black Hills Roadtrip 2026: Part IV

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We woke up after a third and final night at Under Canvas Mount Rushmore and were glad to be leaving for a new destination on our last night of the trip.

I went to the showers early and noticed that the towel bin was barely stocked. I grabbed one for myself and proceeded to take another uncomfortable, one-handed shower. After finishing I walked back to the tent to begin packing up and carrying luggage out to the car.

When Shelley and Evan went to take showers, there were literally no towels left. At 7:30 AM. Add that to the fact that two of the shower stalls were out of order and you get the overall level of attentiveness and upkeep that the resort was offering.

I was going to walk up to the host tent and let them know that there were no towels (and to also convey the unfortunate fact that they were doing a really crappy job running the place), but Shelley and Evan just wanted to get going. They would get a shower later in a more comfortable place.

So do we recommend Under Canvas Mount Rushmore? Heck no.

We pulled into Keystone and decided to check TripAdvisor for a list of breakfast restaurants. We had a bit of a drive that day and checked what was available along the route. We stopped at one in Rapid City.

Rapid City

We chose Millstone Family Restaurant which was pretty crowded, but also pretty good. It was Father’s Day and there was a short wait to get seated, but once we did, we had everything we needed (pancakes, eggs, bacon, etc) to start out our day.

After breakfast, we started northwest on the I-90 toward Spearfish and from there we would be continuing on to Devils Tower.

Spearfish

Northeast Wyoming is sparsely populated and there are few options for gas and food. Thus, we made it a point to stop in Spearfish first for gas and coffee. I had spurned the black coffee available at Millstone in favor of trying out a coffee house in Spearfish.

I was definitely curious to see Spearfish since it seems like the kind of small town that has all the right things going for it: a historic downtown with modern eateries and businesses, proximity to the outdoors, and easy access to Rapid City and the I-90 corridor.

I liked the town right away. And the name of the town is cool.

We stopped at Blackbird Espresso which was clearly a popular spot among the locals (who were an interesting mix too). The coffees took a few minutes, but they were good. I always like visiting local coffee shops when we are out on the road.

After getting some coffee it was time to drive west toward one of nature’s most bizarre geologic wonders: Devils Tower.

Devils Tower National Monument

We visited Devils Tower in 2013 when Evan was in a stroller, so for him it was like the first time. I wanted to come back and see it for the third time in my life (my first visit was in 1988 as a school kid).

Driving in we had to wait about 45 minutes just to enter the parking area because traffic is metered to avoid congestion. We were in no hurry so it wasn’t a problem, but do expect delays in the summer months.

The tower is one of those sights that you just can’t believe is real. It just rises as a massive cylinder above the surrounding countryside.

The tower is the remnants of a volcano that once stood in place of the tower. The tower is a volcanic plug of solidified basalt that formed in the neck of the volcano. When the rest of the volcano eroded away, the basalt column remained.

There are two loop trails around the monument from the visitor center. The inner loop is a paved path of about a mile that circles the monument and offers views throughout. However, it is much more popular with visitors and doesn’t explore the surrounding landscapes.

The other option is the 2.5 mile Red Beds Trail, which I elected to take as an alternative hike. Shelley’s knee was bothering her from bicycling the prior day, so I hiked it alone, while Evan and her did the inner loop.

The Red Beds Trail

To access the Red Beds Trail, simply take the marked detour off the inner loop trail near the visitor center. The trail deviates away from the crowds and you’ll soon see that there is more to Devils Tower National Monument, including the Red Beds.

The attached videos show two locations on the trail, the first about one mile from the trailhead, and the second passing through the Red Beds section.

Both loop trails return to the visitor center parking lot so it is easy to rendezvous if you have hikers on both trails simultaneously.

After completing the hike it was time to drive back to Spearfish for some Father’s Day lunch.

Spearfish

Once back in Spearfish I routed us to a place I had found on TripAdvisor before our departure: Sawyer Brewing Company. The description was just exactly what I wanted, a place that served food and drinks with a nice view.

Well, unfortunately it was raining so the crowd was packed together inside. And that made the interior loud and crowded. Not quite what I wanted.

Add to that meh pizza, and meh service, and too much noise, and pushy people seated behind us, and it was not quite great overall.

Before heading down Spearfish Canyon for the final stop of the day, we stopped off at Walmart for some supplies. Spearfish Canyon is pretty, but there aren’t many services available.

Spearfish Canyon

I had never heard of Spearfish Canyon before researching this trip and I’m glad I found it. It’s yet another scenic area of the Black Hills, but one that is a bit more tucked away and quiet.

We first stopped at Bridalveil Falls which is an easy pull-off stop on the road. There are many Bridalveil Falls in the US, including the one in Yosemite.

Unfortunately this one was lacking the water volume it might have had in a snowier year and was therefore, not quite as impressive as we hoped.

But don’t worry, the falls and the views in Spearfish Canyon get better the further south you drive.

Spearfish Canyon Lodge

We continued on to our lodging for the night at Spearfish Canyon Lodge.

We liked the lodge right away. We had the Muir Suite which had two queen beds and a fireplace on the main level. It looked out on an expansive lawn.

We ate at the restaurant next door called The Latchstring. We weren’t starving but decided to have some beef stew anyway. It was good.

If you choose not to eat at the Latchstring the only other options are 30 miles away. So keep that in mind.

Spearfish Canyon Falls

After eating I took the quick hike down to Spearfish Canyon Falls. I loved it.

After enjoying the falls I hiked back up the short trail and back to the lodge.

I left one local falls for a hike early the next morning: Roughlock Falls.

With that we went to bed and finally enjoyed a comfortable night’s sleep. And had plenty of towels for showering.

Bicycling, Black Hills, South Dakota, Travel

Black Hills Roadtrip 2026: Part III

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Day 4: Saturday: Black Hills

By Saturday morning we were very tired of Under Canvas. After only two nights.

I booked three nights, expecting that we would enjoy the experience quite a bit more. But after two nights we wished we wouldn’t be returning that night for a third.

The bathrooms were poorly maintained, the tents were crowded together, and the kid’s tent was too cold for our son to sleep in comfortably.

We had an early morning cave tour to make and, after getting showered and dressed, we were on our way to Jewel Cave.

Custer

I mentioned in the prior post that we really liked Miner’s Cup. We again ordered three breakfast burritos and coffees, this time parking outside instead of waiting in the drive-thru.

And again the burritos were a great breakfast to get us energized for the morning.

Jewel Cave National Monument

There aren’t many places where you can tour two of the world’s longest and most interesting caves in successive days without leaving the same general area. But the Black Hills are one such place. The prior day we visited Wind Cave, and this morning we were visiting Jewel Cave.

We had visited Jewel Cave in 2013 (when Evan was a 6-month-old baby) but could only visit a single cave room on a tour that was limited to an elevator ride down and back up. With Evan now a 13-year-old, we could do the one-and-a-half hour scenic tour and truly explore the cave.

The drive to Jewel Cave took us westward, to a higher elevation location where the air was cooler than anywhere we had previously been in the Black Hills. Likewise we passed through an area of forest that had been badly burned in 2013. In 2026 the forest was in full recovery.

We entered the visitor center and after encountering a rather rude ranger that was gatekeeping the line to the tour, we were able to start the 9:40 tour.

The features of Jewel Cave were very different from Wind Cave. There is boxwork in Jewel Cave, but far less than Wind Cave. Jewel Cave however is full of calcyte that make the walls appear to be almost covered in bumpy, calcyte crystals.

Additionally, Jewel Cave is a wetter environment than Wind Cave and that allows speleothems to form. These are the stalactites, stalagmites, columns, soda straws, and draperies. And our favorite: cave bacon.

To say that cave bacon looks like a giant slice of actual bacon is an understatement.

Jewel Cave gave us the impression of almost being in an undersea world. The walls of the cave resembled coral and the oozing stalactites often resembled weird starfish.

In the end we really enjoyed having toured both caves and experiencing the contrasts between them.

But here is a question posed by both tours. Since the caves are so extensive and have so many passages left to be discovered, could they merge somewhere deep underground and form a single cave that is the longest in the world?

The ranger at Wind Cave said she doesn’t think it is possible and the entire cave system at Wind Cave is concentrated in a relatively small area. At Jewel Cave, however, they don’t outright dismiss the possibility.

Custer

After touring Jewel Cave we had only just over an hour to get lunch and drive to Hill City for our E-Bike rentals. I considered stopping at a sit-down hamburger restaurant in Custer as we passed through, but to avoid any unnecessary delays we just had drive-thru hamburgers from Dairy Queen.

We would eat better later.

Hill City

I read about the Mickelson Bike Trail while I was planning the trip and decided that it would be fun for the three of us to rent E-Bikes for several hours of riding on the trail.

I just had to decide which section of the trail would be the most fun, and where we could rent bikes for the right amount of time and a decent price.

I read that the portion of the trail between Hill City and Deadwood was the most scenic as it traveled through mountain wilderness and through rail tunnels. The Mickelson Trail was built along the path of former train tracks from the mining days.

I eventually decided to start in Hill City and journey north, and to rent from Bicycles and Boats. I highly recommend them for several reasons. 1) They great bikes and good prices 2) They give you storage bags and a toolkit 3) They are right long the trail path in Hill City and have parking right at their business 4) They are very helpful and give you maps, directions, and suggestions.

The weather looked like it might rain, but the skies held back for us. We had a lot of fun and went to the first rail tunnel (about 12 miles from Hill City) before deciding we better start back and not get rained on.

I highly recommend taking a day to rent bikes (E-Bikes do help with the inclines but any non-motorized bike will do) and enjoy the Mickelson Trail.

After the ride it was still a bit early for dinner, but we were pretty sure we wanted to go to Rapid City for our favorite brew pub. Along the way we debated how to burn a little time. Eventually we pulled over at the epitome of a kitschy tourist attraction.

Rapid City

Bear Country U.S.A.

We love zoos. We also love wildlife and animals in general. Bear Country U.S.A., however, is one of those places that we usually wouldn’t go to. We don’t like places that kind of straddle the line between rescuing and protecting wildlife, and exploiting it.

But we were in the Rapid City outskirts and needed to kill about an hour of time. So…why not.

On the drive through the park we saw lots and lots of bears, and bighorns, and wolves, and more. More bears than I ever think I’ll see again in one place, in fact.

After the wildlife tour we stopped at the outdoor section and saw the bear cubs and timber wolves, and porcupines. It was cute, but I don’t think we’d do it again.

The animals did appear healthy and happy overall, though.

Fire House Brewing Company

We’ve been to brew pubs all over the US, and even outside the US. But the very best, in my opinion, is in Rapid City, South Dakota.

We always have a great time dining at Fire House Brewing Company. The food is great, the beer is great, the atmosphere is top notch. The wait staff is top notch.

We’ve been there three times (2013, 2020, and 2026) and every time it’s been great.

We’ll be back again. Heck we even told the waitress about our future glamping resort and she said she’d be watching for it to open and hopes to visit it.

After dinner, it was time to go back to the other glamping place for one more night. Then onto the next set of destinations.

Colorado, Skiing, Travel

Crested Butte: Easter Ski Adventure

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Sometimes you just get lucky.

The winter of 2025-26 has been really warm and dry in Colorado and in much of the western states. The snowpack in Colorado is at the lowest level it has been at since the 1940s when the snowpack measurements were first recorded.

In December we decided to make reservations for Crested Butte over the Easter weekend. We’ve gone skiing in early April before (Keystone in 2019, Steamboat Springs in 2013, and even Snowbird in Utah in 2003). Of those trips only Steamboat was a bit scant on snow. Snowbird and Keystone had epic levels of snow those years.

So we were looking forward to good skiing at reduced lodging rates and with thinner crowds than in the prime of ski season.

The only problem was the snowfall levels across Colorado were incredibly low. So low that many resorts have closed early or shut down a number of runs. Even Crested Butte closed part of its terrain early due to low snowfall totals.

A week before our trip we saw video of bare ground under the ski lifts and all over the slopes. Rocks, grass, and baby trees. Was it even worth trying to ski? I planned to pack our hiking boots just in case we needed an alternate plan.

Well, mother nature came through for us. Crested Butte received 20 inches of snow the day before we arrived. Enough snow to basically return the runs to a pretty decent shape for a good day of skiing.

So we got out on the slopes post-snowstorm in 50 degree weather on closing weekend. And we had as much fun as I can remember having on a day of skiing.

Warm enough to ski in a hooded sweatshirt without a coat (some skiers were wearing even less). Crowds thin on the slopes and no lines to ride the lifts. We were down and up more times than I can remember on one day and skied more trails than I remember in one day too.

Six hours of skiing with only a short break for lunch. My son now old enough to go on his own or with me as he pleased. My wife able to enjoy the resort, have coffees and meet us for lunch without crowds or cold weather. By the end of the day we were plenty sunburned and tired but pretty darn happy.

A person wearing a ski helmet and goggles smiling for a selfie on a snowy mountain slope, surrounded by evergreen trees and a clear blue sky.
A person and a child wearing ski helmets and goggles smile for a selfie on a snow-covered ski slope, surrounded by evergreen trees and a clear blue sky.
A snow-covered landscape showcasing groomed ski trails, surrounded by evergreen trees and distant snowy mountains under a clear blue sky.
A young person wearing a black helmet and mirrored goggles smiles while seated on a ski lift, surrounded by snow-covered mountains and trees under a clear blue sky.
A skier navigating down a snow-covered slope with pine trees and mountains in the background under a clear blue sky.
A woman sitting at a table in a restaurant, smiling and holding a glass of yellow beverage, with a plate of food in front of her. Snowy mountains are visible through a large window in the background.
A smiling man and a young boy sit together at a table in a casual restaurant, both wearing dark hoodies. The boy is holding a drink, and a menu is visible on the table.
A woman and a boy sitting together on a ski lift chair in a snowy outdoor setting, smiling at the camera. They are dressed warmly, with snow on the ground and a building in the background decorated with holiday lights.
Wide snowy landscape with ski tracks leading up a slope, surrounded by evergreen trees under a clear blue sky.
A young person sitting cross-legged on a stone hearth in front of a fireplace, wearing a black hoodie with a dinosaur graphic, smiling softly.
Two individuals wearing ski helmets and goggles smile for a selfie on a snowy slope, surrounded by evergreen trees and a clear blue sky.

As usual we also saw a lot of wildlife in our short visit to Crested Butte too We saw a fox right outside our hotel room, some moose just down the street from the hotel, and some bighorns and a heron on the drive back home.

A wild sheep with curved horns grazing in a grassy field surrounded by other sheep.
A group of bighorn sheep grazing in a dry, rocky landscape, with some animals in the foreground and one partially visible in the background.
Two bighorn sheep standing in a grassy field, one resting its head against the other.
A moose standing among trees in a snowy landscape, with another moose partially visible in the background.
A moose standing in a snowy landscape, partially hidden among trees.
A fox walking on snow-covered ground.
A fox walking through a snowy field, surrounded by sparse vegetation and trees.
A great blue heron standing near the edge of a calm river, surrounded by tall grass and rocks.

And we made a morning stop at Paradise Cafe (but it wasn’t quite as good this time).

A close-up of a table setting at a restaurant featuring a cup of coffee topped with foam, a glass water bottle, and a cup of whipped cream. The menu titled 'BREAKFAST' is visible in the foreground.

Overall though, it was a good trip. We vow to NOT wait until the end of ski season next year.

And I think we’ll visit Crested Butte in the summer too.

Hiking, Rocky Mountain National Park

Hiking to Rocky Mountain’s Sky Pond

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When autumn arrives in Colorado, we love to visit the high country to enjoy the vibrant colors that light up the mountain sides. One of the best places to enjoy the leaves of gold is Rocky Mountain National Park.

My 19-year-old, college student son Daniel and I spent the prior night in Estes Park, right outside Rocky Mountain. I had planned out the trip in advance and got Bear Lake Road reservations on August 1st, the moment the reservations become available for dates in September (they are gone within minutes for weekends in the summer and fall). We stopped briefly to get some gas and a quick bite of fast food breakfast, then entered the park at first morning’s light.

After passing the checkpoint to verify our access reservations we drove up to the parking area near the Glacier Gorge trailhead (which leads to Sky Pond), but unsurprisingly the small parking area was already full. We then continued onward to the much larger Bear Lake parking lot further up the road and found it was already completely full as well. We were far from the only early morning hikers ready to enjoy the fall colors.

On the drive up I saw a small parking area just below Glacier Gorge and told my son to drive back down to it, hoping that there would still be a place left there while cars passed us heading up to the full lots above. Sure enough, there was a spot left for us at this little parking area about 3/4 miles below the trailhead. A little extra hiking wouldn’t hurt us a bit.

We started down the trail and made fairly good time as we passed by Alberta Falls in the first mile, then The Loch at about 3 miles, the first of the lakes along the way to Sky Pond.

The trail passed alongside The Loch and after another mile we arrived at the point where the trail becomes a bit more challenging. You must climb a small cliff alongside Timberline Falls with cold water tumbling onto the rocks along the way. We made it fairly easily to the top of the cliff where we were rewarded with the sight of The Lake of Glass.

Many hikers mistake the smaller Lake of Glass for Sky Pond, but the trail continues onward past some boulders that obscure the path at the outset. Following alongside the Lake of Glass we ascended a bit further to arrive at Sky Pond.

With the jagged Shark’s Tooth piercing the sky above the lake, we knew we had arrived. Years before, when he was a seventh grader, we had tried the very same hike but had been turned back at deep snow at Timberline Falls. This time, at the right time of year, we had succeeded and could cross this bucket list Colorado hike off our list.

On the hike back we saw some pika hiding amid the rocks and some trout swimming casually in the Loch. The weather was pleasantly warm and and we would be well ahead of any afternoon rain that might move in.

It was a pretty easy-going hike for the both of us, and a good way to usher in the fall.

Camping, Colorado, Travel

Camping at Red Feather Lakes

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Last weekend we went for a camping trip at Red Feather Lakes in northern Colorado. Red Feather Lakes is about an hour west of Fort Collins and 20 miles south of the Wyoming border.

I booked this camping trip about two weeks before when I saw that there was a site available at the Dowdy Lake campground. I have long heard from fellow campers here in Colorado that it is a real gem and it didn’t disappoint.

The lake was beautiful and serene and our campsite was right next to the lake shore. Our goldendoodle Honey went right into the water for a swim and even surprised us by swimming after a duck in the lake.

Our tent was again absolutely worth the investment and made the experience more comfortable and fun. After getting set up at the camp site, we hiked around the lake on the shore trail and enjoyed cast-iron pizza and smores for dinner.

The next morning we ate a simple breakfast before heading out on a 7 mile hike to Mount Margaret. The trail and views were comparatively mediocre, but the dogs enjoyed running around freely with only a scattered few other people on the trail there and back.

Afterward we packed up to avoid a rain storm that was coming and headed home. We are planning to return next May for a longer stay. We’ll also be sure to bring the dogs!

Grand Teton National Park, Hiking, History, Travel, Wildlife, Wyoming

Yellowstone and Tetons Roadtrip 2025: Part VII

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Day 8: The Tetons

Our last day of the trip we had intentionally left fairly open as far as our itinerary. We had gone to the visitor center the day before and saw that there was a ranger-led hike at Taggart Lake on the southern end of the park at 9AM.

Since we had never been to Taggart Lake this seemed like a good activity for the morning. The ranger-led portion was just to the lakeside for about 2 miles. Then we could continue on our own to complete a 4 mile loop back to the trailhead.

Instead of the usual cereal and protein shakes in our cabin, we decided to have a hot breakfast at John Colter’s Ranch House. It was a nice change of pace on a less busy day. Yes, we save quite a bit of time and money by not dining out every meal, but sometimes it’s good to have pancakes, eggs, and bacon.

Taggart Lake

It was about a 45 minute drive from Colter Bay to the Taggart Lake trailhead (with another stop for air in my right-front tire). Once we arrived we waited for the ranger to appear along with the rest of our group then started the guided hike.

It was a bit windier and chillier early in the day as a cold front began to move into the area. That was ok though, it was still a very nice day and we had just gotten really lucky to have such ideal weather the whole trip.

As we made our way along the route the ranger would ask questions of the group. We answered most of them. And he had no qualms about letting us answer them all :).

We’ve been teaching our youngest to not feel embarrassed about ‘showing off’ his knowledge and intelligence. Some kids at school made him feel awkward in science and other class for being a nerd or know-it-all. Let them feel stupid all day long.

So we answered the name of the plant with the yellow flower as ‘arrowhead balsamroot’, that grizzlies love to eat moths, and every other assorted question the ranger had. We also walked into the forest off trail with the permission of the ranger to remind us to take time to let our senses appreciate nature free of all the noise and distractions of life.

As we continued from the lake shore around the loop we saw plenty of vistas of the Tetons, wildflowers, and butterflies, but no significant wildlife.

The Taggart Lake area leads upward to many more trails that I might try in the future such as Delta Lake.

Jackson Hole

I know the town is called Jackson, but everyone calls it Jackson Hole. Which sounds cooler.

We decided to have lunch in JH since we were fairly close to the south entrance and hadn’t been in JH since 2010. Back then we stayed in Jackson, which I realized was pretty distant from the park’s main areas and a bit unsatisfying if you want to enjoy the park.

Jackson has changed a lot in the past couple decades with all the billionaires moving in. We drove past the city park with the elk antler arches (which are pretty cool) and parked on a side street.

We decided to eat at the Merry Piglets because we wanted Mexican food. I had heard of the Merry Piglets because of a famous, recent missing person, murder case that ended in the Tetons not long ago. But regardless of that sad notoriety, we just wanted some burritos.

My food was lukewarm when served, and Shelley’s and Evan’s was almost cold. We sent their food back. I was too hungry to stop and think that my food should have been warmer. They got their remade dishes, which were correctly piping hot. But overall, I can’t really recommend it.

After eating we drove back north into the park and along the way we saw a bison herd. Plenty of junior bison as well.

That was pretty cool and made up for a lackluster lunch.

Colter Bay

We drove back into Colter Bay and parked at our cabin. We wanted to go to the two-mile loop trail that leads to a peninsula off of Colter Bay and afterward we could visit the gift shops one last time.

Shelley and Evan had hiked this trail the day before and were able to point out many things along the way, such as the bear claw marks on a tree (a warning to other bears) and some frogs lurking the mud near the Jackson Lake waterline.

Wile we were hiking back a few people told us a black bear was just seen crossing the path where we were walking. But unfortunately, we missed it.

We walked over to the general store to get some ice cream and met an unusually unfriendly, odd looking guy behind the counter. Almost all the staff we met working at the resorts were nice. This guy was not. Oh well.

We stopped at the visitor center and while inside we heard that the juvenile grizzly had just run past the marina. We stepped outside and there was a crowd there, as well as some rangers at the far end of the marina path. The grizzly was in the woods and the rangers seemed to want it to continue going in that direction.

Well, I had seen bears 6 days of the trip, but so far had struck out today.

We returned to the cabin to start packing up in preparation for departure the next day. We rested a bit, then at dinner time made our way over to the Ranch House again for dinner. It was good and we like it. As far as national park eateries go it’s a good place.

Day 9: Tetons and Wyoming

The next morning I got up early to do the morning hike around the loop trail, hoping to see some wildlife along the way. It was a very chilly 30F degrees and other than the random squirrel or bird in the dim light, the animals were not out and about.

I finished reloading the truck and walked to get some coffees at the coffee shop in Colter Bay. It’s always nice to start a drive with some good coffee. And it helped warm my hands after the biting chill of the hike. The weather had certainly changed overnight.

We left Colter Bay and made one last stop at a pullout before exiting the park.

We’d had a great trip and enjoyed ourselves. But we could still stop along the way at anywhere that looked interesting.

As we were ascending Highway 287 to cross the continental dive, it started to snow. June can still be winter in northern Wyoming.

As we made our way back down toward Dubois, Wyoming the temperatures increased and we were back in summertime.

Entering Dubois we saw a sign for the National Museum of Military Vehicles. Sure. Why not?

The National Museum of Military Vehicles

This museum blew us away. We were thinking we would have an hour stop and peruse the museum like most any other. Instead, after two hours we still weren’t done.

The museum is absolutely huge and full of historical military vehicles, rifles, and everything else related to American military history. It is laid our in chronological order and delves into the experiences of war at places like The Battle of the Bulge in WWII, in Korea, and Vietnam.

Included in the exhibits are German, Soviet, Japanese, and Chinese equipment from the various theaters of war. It was fascinating to see and we wondered how this immense, impressive museum had remained under the radar since it apparently opened in 2020.

Whatever the reason, this museum is a definite stop to make in Dubois, Wyoming.

I will be make a video of the museum and will be posting it here when it is ready.

After the museum we were pretty far behind schedule and needed to make up some time on the drive back.

We tried to get coffee again at the Buffalo Bean in Casper, but it had close for the day by the time we arrived. We had to settle for coffee at the travel center down the road (not as good but decent).

Final Thoughts

We really enjoyed this trip overall, and it was a good change of pace back to a roadtrip after several years of plane travel. I was also glad that we gave ourselves a few more days and this made it a bit more relaxing, allowed us to see and do more, and never feel rushed.

I always have a number of goals for a trip and this trip really met and exceeded in everything we hoped to accomplish. We saw more wildlife than I could have hoped for and all the major ones (bears, moose, wolves, etc). We completed all the hikes that we had planned out. We used our new cooler and hiking equipment to save time and money and to improve our overall experience. We got great photographs and video footage. We did fun activities and still left some places and activities for future visits.

I don’t know when we will be back, but it won’t be six full years again. These parks are only 1-2 days away and I’d be curious to visit in the fall even if visitor services are starting to close for the season. I’d definitely return in June though.

Grand Teton National Park, Kayaking, Travel, Wyoming, Yellowstone National Park

Yellowstone and Tetons Roadtrip 2025: Part V

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Day 6: Yellowstone and Grand Teton

We spent the night in the Grant Village Lodge and woke up fairly early. We wanted to make sure we had time to pack up and carry luggage to the truck and have our first hot breakfast of the trip before a kayak trip that we had reserved on Yellowstone Lake from Grant Marina.

We walked over to the Grant Village Restaurant and found it far less crowded than the prior night. We got seated near the window overlooking the lake and had buffet breakfast. It was good. Much better than what we felt we got the prior night for dinner.

We didn’t have long to enjoy our breakfast before we left for the marina. We got our sunscreen, sandals, and waterproof camera and met the guides at the lake shore.

Kayaking to West Thumb Geyser Basin

I reserved a 3 hour morning kayaking trip to the West Thumb Geyser Basin on a whim a month before our trip. I found it on Viator, and since we would be camping at Grant Campground, I thought it would be a fun morning activity.

Even though we were no longer camping, we had spent the night at Grant Lodge, so we were right there to still go on the kayak tour. Shelley had to bow out of this activity too due to a medical issue, but because we were going to West Thumb Geyser Basin she could travel there and see us from the shore.

The kayak tour was run by Prismatic Tours and I highly recommend it. The guides were knowledgable and friendly, and we talked to them throughout the paddle all the way to West Thumb Geyser Basin about Yellowstone and the thermal features.

The weather conditions the day of our kayaking trip could not have been better. Hardly any wind. A warm morning that steadily rose toward 80F as we proceeded on the water. It was perfect.

As we were alongside the geyser basin we saw water tumbling over the cliff face and into the cold, 40F degree waters of Yellowstone Lake. We put our hands into the water and felt the difference in temperature between the warm layer on top and the colder water below.

Starting off from Grant Marina

In the past we probably wouldn’t have thught of doing a kayaking trip in Yellowstone, but I was so glad I gave this a shot. It was a great experience and a lot of fun.

After returning the the marina we made a last stop at the gift shop in Grant Village, knowing that we were now leaving the park for Grand Teton National Park. We drove south and departed Yellowstone through the south entrance. Til next time, Yellowstone.

Headwaters Resort

After exiting the park we entered the John D. Rockefeller Jr Memorial Parkway, which sits between the parks. It’s great that JD Rockefeller Jr bought and donated this land and other lands nearby, otherwise it would have been developed into an tacky, ugly area full of tourist traps like you see outside of many national parks.

What does exist in the parkway is The Headwaters Resort which is similar to the lodges in Grand Teton National Park. We wanted a good lunch and stopped at Sheffields Restaurant in the resort.

The interior was uncrowded and chill, the staff was friendly and talkative, and the food and beer was good too.

Looking at the name badges of the staff which listed their home state or country, I thought of my college student son who was doing a summer session back home. Later, when I talked to him on the phone, I suggested he might leave next summer open and consider working at a national park. It sure seems like it would be a fun and memorable way to enjoy a summer break while a college student.

After lunch, we got some fuel and more air in my tire that had the aforementioned slow leak in the prior blog, then continued south into Grand Teton National Park.

Grand Teton National Park

It’s hard to believe possible that two of the top fie national parks in the country are only 24 miles apart. But that is the case. I would never not visit both parks when heading to this area, unless my time was very, very limited.

We have a favorite place to stay when we go to Grand Teton and in my opinion, because it’s a little tucked away from much of the rest of the park and the visitor traffic, it is like a park within a park. And that is Colter Bay.

Colter Bay

We drove into Colter Bay, a place we had camped at in 2017 and 2019. This time we were staying in the historic log cabins which are, like the lodging in the rest of Grand Teton and Yellowstone, a tad pricey, but worth it for their location in the park.

I made a video of our cabin. If you have a large family, unfortunately, it might be kind of hard since our cabin only had beds for three people (one double and one twin). As with all lodging in Yellowstone and Grand Teton, it helps to book as early as possible.

After unloading our luggage. We stepped outside to see a friendly mule deer.

From our prior visits, we’ve come to expect to see mule deer and squirrels around Colter Bay. In 2017 and 2019 we saw bald eagles along the shores of Jackson Lake from a rented motor boat. This time we were told about a young grizzly that was hanging around the area, but we weren’t lucky enough to see it.

In the afternoon we a walked around the area and stopped by the visitor center. I had a long hike planned for the next day, which left Shelley and Evan with an open morning to plan. They decided to do a ranger led hike that would circle along the lake shore the next morning.

After passing alongside the marina, we returned briefly to the cabin, then made our way to the Cafe Court Pizzaria in Colter Bay. It was good, and just what we wanted for a meal to end the day.

I had what I expected to be a long and hard hike planned for the next morning and we went to bed not long after sunset. I got my backpack, poles, water bottles, and snacks ready to save time in the morning. With everything ready and our plans made, we went to sleep.

My back was already a bit fatigued from the runs back and forth multiple times to Lonestar Geyser, the kayaking trip, and hefting our fully loaded 60 quart cooler up and down from the truck.

I needed my backpack to be loaded with only the things I needed and nothing more. Lake Solitude was my goal for tomorrow and I was not going to be stopped by too much or too little gear in my backpack.

Colorado, Hiking

Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument

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In Colorado there are four national parks and numerous national monuments, historic sites, and recreation areas. Florissant Fossil Beds is a small national monument in central Colorado, just west of Pikes Peak.

Florissant Fossil Beds is a unique and enjoyable place in a relatively quiet spot in Colorado. This December we made our second ever visit to the monument and saw that it had a new visitor center and a more expansive trail system.

We were last at Florissant Fossil Beds in 2012. At the time Shelley was pregnant with our youngest son Evan, who was born in December of 2012, almost exactly twelve years prior to our most recent visit. For Evan, this was his first real chance to visit the monument even though he was phyically there the last time 🙂

We found that in the intervening years a nice new visitor center had been built and we took some time to peruse the exhibits inside, learning quite a lot about the history of the monument and the many fossils that have been found at the site. We learned for instance that more butterfly fossils have been found at Florissant than anywhere else in the world.

Once we stepped out of the visitor center we made our way to the primary attraction that makes Florissant famous: the great, fossilized redwood stumps.

Redwoods?

Yes, Fifty million years ago the climate of central Colorado was warmer and more humid, though the elevation was still quite high. The climatic conditions allowed huge redwood forests to thrive in what is now a dry, alpine environment.

The redwoods were fossilized by a volcanic eruption that happened about thirty miles from the current site of the monument. That volcano is now extinct, but the ash fall that accumulated at their base ensured that the stumps would remain to the present day.

There are several redwood stumps to be seen within a one mile perimeter of the visitor center. Two are only about one hundred feet away, covered by the protective roof. One of these is a triple trunk that originates from a single base.

To see the others, we took a leisurely stroll along the one mile Petrified Forest Loop Trail. Along the way is the most famous of the stumps, called the “Big Stump”. This stump still bears the rusted remnants of a saw blade from a century old attempt to cut into it. Fortunately that attempt failed and the stump remains for our enjoyment today.

I highly recommend visiting Florissant if you are in this area of Colorado. It’s quiet and relaxing compared to many of the more famous attractions in the state and quite interesting. For us it was also kind of fun to bring Evan there so close to his birthday to reminisce and give him the chance to appreciate the park.

Colorado has many terrific national park sites and we decided to try our best to visit as many as we can in 2025. We think we can visit all four national parks in 2025, and we’ll hit many of the national monuments as well. We’ll share our journeys as we go.

Camping, Colorado, Outdoors

Steamboat Lake Camping

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Could we really go through the year without a single camping trip? No. That would be wrong.  Human beings need to get away from the comforts of a climate controlled house and experience the outdoors.  Tents force us to do that.

We love Steamboat Lake State Park in Routt County, Colorado.  It’s a beautiful lake not far from the Wyoming border surrounded by mountains and forests and not a lot else.  It has a marina that rents kayaks and paddleboards. 

Of course we kayaked.  We also tried fishing.  No bites.  But I was happy my 11-year-old wanted to try it and we’ll give it a go at another lake. 

We also cooked every meal at the campsite.  Usually we have a couple meals and then drive into town for a restaurant meal.  This time we tried making cast iron skillet pizza and brought a portable charcoal grill for steak and chicken, as well as our gas stove for pancakes and to heat water for morning coffee.

The Milky Way was visible in the night sky and I did my best to photograph it with my phone, along with numerous critters large and small.

Overall we enjoyed it a lot.  We all need to disconnect more.  Tent camping means dealing with freezing nights and hot days and making due with whatever tool works because you forgot something.

I definitely don’t feel done getting out into the mountains this year.  And hopefully camping.  The weather is going to change so we’ll  have to go soon.  I always feel good coming back to regular life after roughing it or challenging myself on trails.  That’s the reason we do it.