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Black Hills Roadtrip 2026: Part III

Day 4: Saturday: Black Hills

By Saturday morning we were very tired of Under Canvas. After only two nights.

I booked three nights, expecting that we would enjoy the experience quite a bit more. But after two nights we wished we wouldn’t be returning that night for a third.

The bathrooms were poorly maintained, the tents were crowded together, and the kid’s tent was too cold for our son to sleep in comfortably.

We had an early morning cave tour to make and, after getting showered and dressed, we were on our way to Jewel Cave.

Custer

I mentioned in the prior post that we really liked Miner’s Cup. We again ordered three breakfast burritos and coffees, this time parking outside instead of waiting in the drive-thru.

And again the burritos were a great breakfast to get us energized for the morning.

Jewel Cave National Monument

There aren’t many places where you can tour two of the world’s longest and most interesting caves in successive days without leaving the same general area. But the Black Hills are one such place. The prior day we visited Wind Cave, and this morning we were visiting Jewel Cave.

We had visited Jewel Cave in 2013 (when Evan was a 6-month-old baby) but could only visit a single cave room on a tour that was limited to an elevator ride down and back up. With Evan now a 13-year-old, we could do the one-and-a-half hour scenic tour and truly explore the cave.

The drive to Jewel Cave took us westward, to a higher elevation location where the air was cooler than anywhere we had previously been in the Black Hills. Likewise we passed through an area of forest that had been badly burned in 2013. In 2026 the forest was in full recovery.

We entered the visitor center and after encountering a rather rude ranger that was gatekeeping the line to the tour, we were able to start the 9:40 tour.

The features of Jewel Cave were very different from Wind Cave. There is boxwork in Jewel Cave, but far less than Wind Cave. Jewel Cave however is full of calcyte that make the walls appear to be almost covered in bumpy, calcyte crystals.

Additionally, Jewel Cave is a wetter environment than Wind Cave and that allows speleothems to form. These are the stalactites, stalagmites, columns, soda straws, and draperies. And our favorite: cave bacon.

To say that cave bacon looks like a giant slice of actual bacon is an understatement.

Jewel Cave gave us the impression of almost being in an undersea world. The walls of the cave resembled coral and the oozing stalactites often resembled weird starfish.

In the end we really enjoyed having toured both caves and experiencing the contrasts between them.

But here is a question posed by both tours. Since the caves are so extensive and have so many passages left to be discovered, could they merge somewhere deep underground and form a single cave that is the longest in the world?

The ranger at Wind Cave said she doesn’t think it is possible and the entire cave system at Wind Cave is concentrated in a relatively small area. At Jewel Cave, however, they don’t outright dismiss the possibility.

Custer

After touring Jewel Cave we had only just over an hour to get lunch and drive to Hill City for our E-Bike rentals. I considered stopping at a sit-down hamburger restaurant in Custer as we passed through, but to avoid any unnecessary delays we just had drive-thru hamburgers from Dairy Queen.

We would eat better later.

Hill City

I read about the Mickelson Bike Trail while I was planning the trip and decided that it would be fun for the three of us to rent E-Bikes for several hours of riding on the trail.

I just had to decide which section of the trail would be the most fun, and where we could rent bikes for the right amount of time and a decent price.

I read that the portion of the trail between Hill City and Deadwood was the most scenic as it traveled through mountain wilderness and through rail tunnels. The Mickelson Trail was built along the path of former train tracks from the mining days.

I eventually decided to start in Hill City and journey north, and to rent from Bicycles and Boats. I highly recommend them for several reasons. 1) They great bikes and good prices 2) They give you storage bags and a toolkit 3) They are right long the trail path in Hill City and have parking right at their business 4) They are very helpful and give you maps, directions, and suggestions.

The weather looked like it might rain, but the skies held back for us. We had a lot of fun and went to the first rail tunnel (about 12 miles from Hill City) before deciding we better start back and not get rained on.

I highly recommend taking a day to rent bikes (E-Bikes do help with the inclines but any non-motorized bike will do) and enjoy the Mickelson Trail.

After the ride it was still a bit early for dinner, but we were pretty sure we wanted to go to Rapid City for our favorite brew pub. Along the way we debated how to burn a little time. Eventually we pulled over at the epitome of a kitschy tourist attraction.

Rapid City

Bear Country U.S.A.

We love zoos. We also love wildlife and animals in general. Bear Country U.S.A., however, is one of those places that we usually wouldn’t go to. We don’t like places that kind of straddle the line between rescuing and protecting wildlife, and exploiting it.

But we were in the Rapid City outskirts and needed to kill about an hour of time. So…why not.

On the drive through the park we saw lots and lots of bears, and bighorns, and wolves, and more. More bears than I ever think I’ll see again in one place, in fact.

After the wildlife tour we stopped at the outdoor section and saw the bear cubs and timber wolves, and porcupines. It was cute, but I don’t think we’d do it again.

The animals did appear healthy and happy overall, though.

Fire House Brewing Company

We’ve been to brew pubs all over the US, and even outside the US. But the very best, in my opinion, is in Rapid City, South Dakota.

We always have a great time dining at Fire House Brewing Company. The food is great, the beer is great, the atmosphere is top notch. The wait staff is top notch.

We’ve been there three times (2013, 2020, and 2026) and every time it’s been great.

We’ll be back again. Heck we even told the waitress about our future glamping resort and she said she’d be watching for it to open and hopes to visit it.

After dinner, it was time to go back to the other glamping place for one more night. Then onto the next set of destinations.

Black Hills Roadtrip 2026: Part I

The Black Hills of South Dakota are a unique place. They are chock full of natural and historic places, and are a huge part of the American story in a year in which we’re celebrating the semiquincentennial year of the United States: America 250.

We had a lot of reasons to make a road trip to the Black Hills in June of 2026:

1) To explore places we have never been to on prior trips.

2) To revisit some sites with our now 13-year-old son that he had only visited once as a 6-month old baby.

3) To enjoy the great American roadtrip with some out-of-way and out-of-the-ordinary tourist stops along the way.

    4) And finally, to see if the Black Hills might be a place to open a future campground business we hope to pursue in the next few years.

    Day 1: Wednesday: The Drive to Cheyenne, Wyoming

    We decided to start the journey with a Wednesday afternoon drive up to Cheyenne, Wyoming after work to better position ourselves for the roadtrip the following day. By spending a night in Cheyenne we’d bypass the traffic in the Denver metro and give us two extra hours to explore.

    The 2-hour drive north on the I-25 from our home we have done dozens of times, but since it was our intention to take our time, we made a stop at the Buc-ee’s in Berthoud, Colorado and had dinner at one of my favorite restaurants in Colorado: Nordy’s in Loveland.

    At Buc-ees we picked up some road trip snacks: glazed almonds, pecans, and cashews, cinnamon-roll frosted pretzels, etc. We brought our Blue cooler and could put anything that might need to be kept cool within (like the chocolate Overbites). And, on a Wednesday evening, it wasn’t even crazily busy within the store.

    We’ve made stops at Nordy’s on a bunch of roadtrip vacations over the years and I also enjoy walking in the door, seeing the Western decor, and smelling the delicious BBQ. Since it’s only about 30 miles from Nordy’s to Cheyenne, we also could have a beer with our dinner.

    I ordered the Carolina pulled pork sandwich with corn fritters and it was delicious as usual. Nordy’s is one of those places I’ll genuinely miss if we leave Colorado.

    Earlier this year I signed up for the Marriott Bonvoy Chase Card. And because we spent the $3000 within the first three nights, I received five free nights at Marriott branded hotels.

    We used two nights at the Marriott in Breckenridge and I used another free night at the Fairfield Inn in Cheyenne, Wyoming.

    It’s a nice new hotel on the southwest side of the city. The room was clean and comfortable and the breakfast the next morning was also good.

    The hotel is across the street from train tracks and trains are frequently passing by throughout the day and night. I called ahead when I booked to request a room on the backside of the hotel which faces a parking area and open land. Some of the reviews mention train noise, but I can say the back of the hotel is very quiet.

    This is a photo from our room on the 4th floor. I would certainly stay there again, especially with Bonvoy points.

    Day 2: Thursday: Cheyenne to the Black Hills via the Nebraska Panhandle

    When I made plans for the roadtrip I decided it would be interesting to take a route further east instead of our typical route directly north through Wyoming.

    We would make the second day all about the journey and not the destination.

    This would be a day that would see us on the road early, and going to sleep late. We ate a hot breakfast in the hotel then got out on the road.

    Holiday Park Big Boy Locomotive

    The first stop of the day was in Cheyenne, Wyoming itself. We are train aficionados (especially my 13-year-old Evan) and the chance to see a Big Boy locomotive was something we were not going to pass up.

    The Union Pacific Railroad company built the Big Boy steam engines in the 1940s to run between Cheyenne, Wyoming and Ogden, Utah. They are still the largest locomotives ever built.

    Only a few Big Boy engines still exist and I’m aware of only one that is still running. The one at Holiday Park in Cheyenne has been idle since the 1960s. But they are absolutely huge and well worth seeing.

    The engine is 132 feet long with eight drive wheels on both sides. The tender is by itself as large as a modern diesel engine.

    After spending some time walking around the engine and taking photos, we returned to my truck to start off for the next destination (with a stop for coffee at a Ziggi’s in Cheyenne before leaving town).

    Scott’s Bluff National Monument

    We drove northeast from Cheyenne and crossed the Nebraska state line to make a visit to Scott’s Bluff National Monument.

    There are two interesting reasons to visit Scott’s Bluff.

    First, the bluff itself stands about 800 feet above the surrounding prairie and offers distant views of the surrounding bluffs, the North Platte river, and the city of Scottsbluff, NE. There are numerous scenic trails to explore from the summit.

    Second, is the bluff’s significance to Oregon Trail pioneers. When the pioneers were traveling in wagon trains for over the two thousand miles, they did so at a time when road signs and GPS were a distant dream. Instead, they noted their progress by passing notable geographic landmarks.

    Scott’s Bluff was a passageway for the wagon trains as the journeyed west.

    First we walked along the Oregon trail path which has conestoga wagons on display (one with faux oxen), giving a sense of what the wagons would have once looked like passing over the same ground.

    Afterward we drove to the top of the bluff to do some short hikes (I also ran down a section and ran back up to exercise my legs before we continued on with the drive). The bluff top is fairly extensive and the trails lead all the way to the base if you want to skip the drive.

    Since we had limited time and a big day planned, after about an hour we needed to move on to our next stop: Chimney Rock.

    Chimney Rock National Historic Site

    We drove a section of highway between Scott’s Bluff and Chimney Rock along the same route that the Oregon Trail would have traveled in the reverse direction (we were traveling southeast and the Oregon trail traveled northwest).

    Like Scott’s Bluff, Chimney Rock was an important landmark on the Oregon Trail. And this landmark is so significant it is featured on the Nebraska license plate and in the game Oregon Trail.

    There are two areas to visit at Chimney Rock: The Nebraska State Historical Society run museum and trails, and the privately owned Walk to the Rock.

    We first visited the state park section which is more distant from the landmark but includes the museum. Chimney Rock is a historic site because the Oregon Trail pioneers used it as a landmark and also engraved their names on the sandstone (but you can’t get close enough to the monument to see the engravings).

    After visiting the museum we proceeded to the next section of the monument which was only opened a few years ago: Walk to the Rock.

    Walk to the Rock is just a short half mile drive up from the museum parking lot and allows you to view Chimney Rock from much better vantage points. You still can’t approach any closer than a couple hundred feet, but you can see more of the geologic details of this iconic landmark.

    You will absolutely want to visit Walk to the Rock as the views are simply much better and provide different viewing angles as well.

    Alliance, Nebraska

    After an hour and a half at Chimney Rock we needed to keep moving. We needed to find a place to have a picnic lunch and I found Laing Park in Alliance, Nebraska. All we needed was a quiet spot with picnic tables and that is what we found.

    The park had a nice lake and was very quiet, but we were a little disappointed by the amount of litter left behind by someone’s birthday party.

    We stopped to look at some neat ducks by the lakeside. One appeared to be a wood duck.

    Carhenge

    The real reason for proceeding to Alliance, Nebraska was to see a famous tourist attraction that mimics Stonehenge in England, but using old cars: Carhenge.

    Carhenge helps draw tourists to Alliance, Nebraska and it is really a cool scale model of the ancient Druid monument.

    We walked around the car structures, and the oddball dinosaur and other monsters on the site. We wanted to visit the gift shop, but there was a pretty bad odor inside so we decided to just get back on the road. We still had a lot to do that day.

    Chadron, Nebraska

    Driving north from Alliance, Nebraska the terrain begins to change from the Sandhills region of Nebraska into the rugged southern end of the Black Hills. I wanted to stop at Chadron State Park (and it would have made a prettier lunch spot), but we were running short of time and needed to make a stop at the local Walmart for a few supplies.

    With the shopping done it was time to leave Nebraska behind and cross the state line into South Dakota.

    The Black Hills

    The South Dakota Black Hills are both a mountain range and a major cultural and historical region that defines western South Dakota and northeastern Wyoming.

    We had a busy itinerary planned for our time in the Black Hills over the next several days.

    Under Canvas Mount Rushmore

    I mentioned that my wife Shelley and I want to eventually open a glamping business and we thought it would be fun idea to spend a few mights at the biggest glamping chain in the US: Under Canvas.

    I will have a lot to say about our experience here in a subsequent post (overpriced and overall bad), but I’ll just say in this post that we were staying in a Safari Tent with an additional Kid’s Tent.

    After we got checked in and put our luggage in the tent we were hungry and drove to Hill City for dinner.

    Prairie Dog Taproom, Hill City

    The guy who checked us into our tent at Under Canvas recommended the Prairie Dog Taproom in Hill City. The food was good, but it was also rather difficult to order because everything was done via phone and text message. I felt like we needed a user guide for the restraunt when all we wanted was some cold beers and a pizza.

    They did have friendly staff and a lot of games to play while eating. The waitress told us all about her life and asked us for personal advice after just meeting us. We said what we always say: You do you.

    Mount Rushmore National Memorial

    The final stop of the night was probably the most important for us in this year of the semiquincentennial: Mount Rushmore.

    We visited Mount Rushmore on the previous visits in 2013 and 2020, but we felt we should visit again, this time at night for the evening program with the lighting ceremony.

    We had to make a quick getaway from the Prairie Dog Taphouse conversation to make sure we could get over to Mount Rushmore in time to get in line for ice cream. They serve an original recipe that was Thomas Jefferson’s own and it is so very good.

    After eating our ice cream we walked over to the gift shop for much needed sweat shirts. We were cold and under-dressed for a night at the monunent. The Black Hills were relatively cool (60s and low 70s F) during our trip and it was in the 40s F during the evening lighting ceremony.

    The lighting ceremony was quite nice. A ranger spoke about why he chose to become a park ranger, there was a video about the American experience, and finally all of the military vets and gold star families were called down from the audience to the stage to lower the flag.

    The illumination of the memorial was as good as I had hoped.

    Afterward we headed back to our glamping tent for the night. We got to sleep at about 11 PM after a long, but fun day.

    Wildlife of South Dakota

    Wildlife of South Dakota

    The Great Plains meet the first vestiges of the Rockies in South Dakota. From the Badlands to the Black Hills to the tall-grass prairies wildlife thrives here. Here’s a look at many of the animals we’ve seen and photographed in South Dakota. View the gallery…

    Black Hills and Badlands, June 2020

    Black Hills and Badlands, June 2020

    In June of 2020 we shook off the shackles of the pandemic to hit the road to South Dakota for fun in the Black Hills and Badlands. Read on…

    • Highlights
      • Mount Rushmore NM
      • Crazy Horse Monument and Museum
      • Custer State Park
      • Firehouse Brewing Company, Rapid City, SD
      • Cosmos Mystery Area
      • Badlands National Park
      • 1880s Train
    • Lowlights
      • Holiday Inn Express, Keystone, SD
      • Badlands Saloon and Grill, Wall, SD