Survival Stories

I have a number of things on my mind today that I was considering as topics for a blog post, but decided to talk a bit about survival stories. In particular I’ll discuss three that are of interest to me, two factual and one fictional.

I’ve always enjoyed reading survival stories and watching movies based on those who have survived in difficult circumstances. Often when I’ve been in places of extreme climate and terrestrial conditions I hearken back to these stories and think about how the individuals involved survived despite the odds stacked against them. Every time the answer is really simple: smarts and determination.

To survive is not a test of courage, nor a test of strength, or stamina, or even luck, though all of these can make surviving in desperate conditions easier. It is a test of one’s ability to make an accurate assessment of one’s current state and the conditions one has been placed in, and deciding upon the best avenue to extricating one’s self from the calamitous situation.

Most of us assume we will never be put in a survival situation, but there is simply no guarantee that this will be true. One could live their entire life in the comfort of suburbia and work daily in the safety of an office building, but find themselves trapped in a blizzard on a remote stretch of road and faced with a life and death decision, or in any number of other frightening situations. Reading these stories provides us with an understanding of what went right, what went wrong, and what we can learn from the success and mistakes of others.

The first story I’ll discuss is that of Aron Ralston, whose story led to the movie 127 hours. Ralston of course was forced to cut off his own arm when trapped hopelessly in a slot canyon outside Canyonlands National Park. As everyone who has hiked in that area knows, the odds of being found and discovered there are pretty close to zero (although the canyon walls to echo and carry sounds farther than you might imagine).

Ralston has become somewhat of a hero for having the courage to amputate his own arm, but he also made a lot of mistakes before he ever set out, despite his canyoneering experience. Mistakes that we can learn from. He was arrogant and reckless. He assumed nothing could go wrong. He didn’t communicate where he was going or what he was doing.

You have to tell people where you are going. Cell phones make this a tad easier as they provide a reasonable indication of one’s location (always carry one and try to make sure it’s fully charged – better yet get some type of solar charger), but when you are going into the remote wilderness one of the only means of rescue is having a basic understanding of one’s location, something nobody had. While he still would have lost his arm, his ordeal would have been much shorter.

So what did he do right? Well, obviously he correctly assessed the situation and concluded that his survival meant parting with his arm. That is a terribly painful reality (literally), but being willing to make a strategic sacrifice is sometimes necessary. In some stories I’ve read over time, sick and dying members of a party have to be left behind to give the others a better chance. Staying together is not always the answer, though it more often is better and safer for everyone.

Another decision upon cutting away his arm was to drink from any available fresh-water sources. Could they have dangerous bacteria? Yup. Is the need to get any hydration, even from a dirty water source better than none in the moment? Yup. If you survive the hike out you can always get medical attention for the possible giardiasis and gangrenous wounds. But without water, it’s over quickly.

Another thing he did right is know exactly where he was and how to get back, as well as know that the location he was in was not likely to be stumbled upon by another canyoneer. If you can trust that the location you are in is probably trafficked by fellow hikers, drivers, etc at least once a day, staying put might be the better option than risking a journey back.

The next story I want to discuss is a favorite movie of mine from the 1990s called The Edge. It’s a story of a group of wealthy urbanites who take a vacation at a remote wilderness lodge (I assume it’s Alaska but the movie never directly says). After a bush plane crash, a few survivors must trek through the wilderness to safety.

There are a few interesting things about this movie that I enjoy. First, the hero of the story is the billionaire businessman (Anthony Hopkins) who despite being placed in a desperate situation is able to reason his way back to civilization. At the beginning of the movie he is quizzed by his fellow travelers on what would be depicted on the back of an oar, and being well-read he correctly responds that it is a rabbit smoking a pipe.

The allusion to events later in the movie is obvious in that Anthony Hopkin’s character is smart enough to reason his way through all the circumstances that they will encounter and is thus unafraid as they occur, which leads to their salvation. And of course among his party there are those that are also out to get him. But because of his intelligence, willingness to read and educate himself well beyond the confines of his required business knowledge, and determination to meet the challenges, he survives. His habit of reading and acquiring knowledge mattered when it counted most.

One of my favorite parts of the movie are the scenes leading up to the encounter with the bear which has already killed one of the members of the party (I’ll forgive this bit of fiction because grizzlies don’t really stalk and kill humans in this way). He makes Alec Baldwin’s character repeat the line “If one man can do it, any man can do it”. Essentially what they intend to do is use a sharpened spear to make the bear impale itself under its own weight. Native hunters used they method, he knows, but they only need to know that they can do it.

I’ve often reminded myself of that mantra many times when I am faced with a difficult challenge. No, everyone cannot run a 9.6 second 100 meters or multiply two numbers of ten digits accurately in seconds. But for most any task or project or endeavor we can rely on the knowledge that if one person was able to previously accomplish the same task, we can accomplish the same task as well. We just need to understand how they succeeded and why they succeeded.

Sometimes the biggest barrier to our success or survival is our own self-doubt. Once we set aside that invisible internal enemy, we can overcome the odds stacked against us logically and systematically.

Finally, the amazing story of Julianne Koepcke. Julianne Koepcke was a seventeen-year-old girl who miraculously survived a plane crash over the Peruvian rainforest in the 1970s. She fell from the plane without a parachute, but because she was strapped to her seat (which acted a bit like a helicopter to slow her descent), and fell into the canopy of the rainforest, she was slowed just enough to survive.

Once on the ground though she had a broken collarbone, lacerations, and was hopelessly alone in one of the most hostile ecosystems on earth. This situation should have been a death sentence despite surviving the fall. But she had one huge advantage over 99% of the rest of humanity: she had been raised in the rainforest by her scientist parents and was both knowledgeable and unafraid of the rainforest.

She knew about the snakes and understood the dangers they presented. She knew she could acquire water from leaves. She knew that she needed to treat a festering wound or it would lead to her arm being amputated or her own death (she found gasoline along the way and used to kill the maggots). She knew that a king vulture meant that carrion was nearby and assumed it was other plane crash victims. There she found candy that she was able to use to stave off starvation.

Eventually she found a couple Peruvians in the forest who were able to treat her wounds, give her food, and bring her back to civilization. Her story is amazing but again leads back to one common element about all stories of survival: that it is a matter of reasoning and calm decision-making that makes the difference between life and death.

This was a girl that was not placed in a position to trek through the rainforest to survival, but when fate led her to that situation, she was able to meet the challenge. I think it’s important that we always consider what might go wrong, and think about what we can do to prepare ourselves for any situation no matter how unlikely it may seem. Not all of us live in the rainforest, or at high altitude, or in a desert climate, but a little knowledge and experience goes a long way when we are faced by survival situations.

Friendly Places

People and places change over time, sometimes dramatically. Often our own perspectives change as well which affects how we interpret and interact with the world around us.

I’ve certainly read a lot about various places and the people inhabiting these places. Often we hear the stereotypes and arrive with a preconceived notion of what to expect when we explore a new place. Sometimes we fear a bogeyman that doesn’t really exist to the expected degree (crime, rude people, etc) and sometimes were disappointed by what we see and experience, which doesn’t match what we were told and read.

I’ve had the experience of seeing places change over the course of time too. One place I’ll mention below I would have considered one of the three friendliest states in the country 10-15 years ago. Now I would say that is sadly no longer true. There are different reasons why places experience change (growth, interstate migrations, economic conditions, and unfortunately politics), but life and humanity does evolve over time and so might this blog post.

So what states, cities, and countries seem to have the friendliest people? Well, we need some criteria to help answer that.

  • Openness: How likely are people willing to open up and talk to you without knowing you in advance? This covers everything from simple hellos on the sidewalk, to conversations at the table, to advice from a local in a cab.
  • Authenticity: How legitimately nice are people? I think we are all well aware of the types of people that will feign friendliness just to separate you from your money. Genuine people are trustworthy and real and make people feel safer and more welcome.
  • Courtesy: Even generally unfriendly people can have a degree of courtesy and respect, which includes holding open doors, letting you merge in traffic, avoiding certain language that would result in getting sent to the principal’s office in school, etc.
  • Live-and-Let-Live: This is kind of a way of saying how open are people to allowing people to think and act a little different than the herd. You can often feel this one more than hear it, in terms of questioning looks or feelings of isolation.
  • Cliquishness: Friendly places don’t have many socially isolated groups that make it difficult or impossible to integrate or feel welcome.

So keeping this list of criteria in mind, here is my list of the friendliest places I’ve been.

Wyoming

Wyoming is the smallest state in population and many of its town have less people than a single city street in larger states (I’m not exaggerating). Wyoming also has some of the friendliest and most open people I’ve ever met.
With the exception of Jackson (which has slowly become a millionaires and billionaires club), Wyoming-ites are about as genuine as they come. They also have the mountains states Live-and-Let-Live ethos and are as open to talk as they come.
In one small-town restaurant stop the owners almost treated us like family members. It was honestly a bit of an odd feeling for us, coming from a more urban area where such a welcoming attitude is cause for suspicion. No, it’s just a different life in Wyoming.

Montana

Montana is similar to Wyoming but it has a bit more going on in it’s largest cities. A lot of people have moved to Montana over the last few years but it’s still a friendly and fun place.
We found it easy to chat up the locals (who’ve often moved in just to partake in the outdoors) and found them to be easy-going and helpful.
Places like Bozeman have become extremely pricey to live and you have to wonder how that will affect the locals as time goes by.

Santa Fe, NM

I’m not going to speak for the entirety of New Mexico, which is pretty varied depending on what city or region you are in. But Santa Fe just has a friendly, calming vibe that is hard to describe.
I’ve walked through the town and hung out in the tourist areas and I notice that even the visitors begin to pick up a disarming attitude. People are friendly, no one is rushed, people smile. Yes, they smile at you, which in a lot of other places would make people think twice about their intent.
There is no cliquishness here and people are genuinely friendly. This is also a place where Live-and-Let-Live is never in doubt.

South Dakota

It’s important to understand the distinction between the locals and the out-of-town visitors. The Black Hills fill with tourists in the summer, who bring their medley of attitudes. But the actual South Dakotans are a friendly lot of people that could not be any less pretentious.

Rapid City is a big metropolis only in a place like South Dakota (or neighboring Wyoming), but it does have the best brewpub in America (The Firehouse)and really great people who smile and chat. The surrounding towns and cities in the region are worry-free, calm, and really scenic. The last time we were in South Dakota I honestly thought about moving there.

North Carolina

The first of two Carolinas I’ll mention on this blog is a more populated place than the three earlier mentioned locales, but from my brief experience it belongs on this blog. North Carolina had one of the nicest waitresses I’ve ever experienced, who cared a lot that I enjoyed my food and was all too happy to take the item off our bill. We also had a great time eating BBQ in downtown Charlotte, where we could easily have felt out of place if not for the friendly people. People seemed genuine and kind as a whole.

I also encountered a lot of friendly people at Chimney Rock State Park. I do need to visit more of North Carolina to get a fuller picture of this place, but my initial experiences were all positive.

South Carolina

Ok, this place really stood out for friendliness. I was literally taken aback by how friendly, polite, and genuine the people of South Carolina were on our visit in 2020. We traveled across the state from the north near Charlotte, NC to the southern coast of Charleston and Kiawah Island, and back across to the northwest border and we fell a little in love with the state enough to say we might move there someday.

We had multiple conversations with people that we would likely not have elsewhere (or not so frequently or easily). There were literally zero people that we can think of along the way that were rude or unfriendly. It felt good in South Carolina.

The Midwest

I grew up in the American Midwest and traveled to a number of neighboring states. The Midwestern states of Nebraska, Iowa, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Kansas, and Missouri deserve a mention of their own here.
These states can be a little cliquey (honestly I hated some of this growing up and found life genuinely boring as a kid with a thirst for adventure), but this region has some of the most polite and authentic people in the country. People have a really strong sense of ethics and you will find that if your car breaks down anywhere in America, you’d be happiest to have it happen in one of these Midwestern states. They’ll take care of you and make sure you’re safely back on the road.

Costa Rica

Yes, I’m including an entire country here. I heard before traveling there that the people are very friendly and nice. For once, the truth is exactly what other people say. I think a lot of this comes down to stress. People there just don’t feel it, or let it get to them. Ticos are just fun-loving and really friendly.

Even the expatriate Americans are friendly there. They live with a lot of inconveniences like unreliable electricity, challenges acquiring things, etc and theft is a real issue (we had no issues and realized our concerns were a bit unfounded), but when you wake up every day with beautiful scenery and monkeys hanging out overhead you tend not to stress much.

The Ticos rate high in all five of my criteria for the list, except maybe courtesy on the roadways. That’s a different story 🙂

Hikers

The friendliest place is not a place at all but a group of people who all share a love of the outdoors. Hikers are the friendliest people in the entire world.

When I go hiking to escape the daily grind I not only get to enjoy the outdoors but enjoy the friendliness of the hiking community as well. When on the trail “hello” and “good morning” are just the standard greeting. Everyone is happy and ready to share their happiness as well.

There are groups of outdoors enthusiast groups that are not friendly. Bicyclists are the worst ones, followed by the often douchey/pretentious/stuck-up skier community. But hikers…they are just great and love being at home in nature.

Make sure to go out early BEFORE the crowds of tourists arrive to understand fully what I mean 🙂

A Few More Thoughts

There are a few places that are unfairly maligned by stereotypes that I think I’ll mention here:

  • California: It is crowded in areas but the people here are friendlier and more fun-loving than they get credit for nationally. They can’t help a lot of things that go on in their state.
  • The South: When I first went to the Southern states I thought as a whole they were some of the friendliest. That seems to be changing somewhat as more people move in and the culture as a whole seems to be changing. Hopefully Southern hospitality isn’t going away.
  • New England: I heard that New England was rather unfriendly and rude before visiting. It didn’t really stand out that way to us on our visit. We even met some nice people (and one or two that were somewhat pretentious). But it is not, as a whole, unfriendly at all.
  • Utah: I have been to Utah many times and for most of that time I would say Utahns are some of the nicest people in the country. The last few visits we’ve run into some rather unfriendly people. Some of those people I believe were out-of-towners, but it resulted in me removing Utah from the friendly list.

Least Friendly Places

I’m hesitant to list the most unfriendly places I’ve been but here goes:

Seattle, WA: Offish, sort of rude, and unhelpful (even giving you wrong directions)
Victoria, BC: Very stuffy, even to children.
Las Vegas, NV: Literally some scary people that might go off on you without warning.
Orlando, FL: We met not a single nice person our last time there.
Washington D.C.: The government employees could use some training on being kinder to the visitors.
Chicago, IL: Really didn’t like it the last time I was there.
Gatlinburg, TN: Crowds were really a problem there – I’m sure the people were nicer individually. Pigeon Forge felt better.
Miami and Fort Lauderdale, FL: There are a lot of transplants there. The genuine Floridians I’ve known are much nicer.
New Orleans: I love the history, food, music, and culture of New Orleans and Lousiana. I would love to take the family back there and explore it more. But I think I’m fully done with Bourbon Street 🙂

Hiking Rocky Mountain National Park

Hiking Rocky Mountain National Park

Rocky Mountain National Park is the largest national park in Colorado and one of the most visited in the country. Over the course of many years I’ve hiked dozens of trails in this park, from the short and family-friendly Emerald Lake, to the ultra-challenging Longs Peak trail. Read on…

Covid Craziness

A couple years ago we were going through the height of the Covid madness. Now at last, (with a degree of hesitation) I’m hoping we’ve gotten to a point where we can start having open conversations about the disease and the societal the response to it, and all that we’ve endured individually along the way, without fear of reprisal on so many levels.

I think our entire country and the larger world have been damaged psychologically by the covid pandemic. Less so from the disease itself than from the emotional response that anyone wanting to discuss the topic engendered. Why was it so impossible to even be allowed to discuss a disease without a massive outpouring of emotionally charged vitriol, eventually leading to censorship online, social castigation and the loss of friendships?

I created this blog largely to share a lot of what I enjoy and to share ideas and my hobbies. I used to have fairly intellectual discussions with people on a number of topics on online and in person, but I found that once Covid hit and the 2020 election season got underway, society was just not going to allow for the free exchange of ideas in an objective manner.

When the Covid pandemic began we were reasonably cautious as a family. My work went fully remote after previously requiring daily in-office attendance (and productivity actually increased as well as job satisfaction). I kept a watchful eye on the Johns Hopkins site for info on cases locally, nationally and worldwide. As Covid began to emerge in even our town and there were local hospitalizations and the first few deaths, we settled in for a stay-at-home life mixing our employment with home schooling.

It didn’t take the average person very long to see that the data for severe illness was skewing heavily toward the most elderly with comorbidities and that children were largely avoiding the illness completing. A large percentage of the population was completely asymptomatic. Containing the disease was simply impossible as it had already spread quickly to every corner of the earth and would, even if momentarily eradicated in one location, return swiftly once all control measures were lifted.

By the summer of 2020 our family had decided that the negative effects of isolation with its negligible health benefits was completely outweighed by the need to go out and be active. We took some roadtrips to places where restrictions were lifted and visited with friends and family.

We were young, healthy, and made decisions that were right for us. If we were older and our health was more fragile, we would have handled things differently. We knew lots of people that remained locked away in self-enforced isolation and a child friend of my youngest son was kept essentially isolated in his home for over a year while all throughout our neighborhood kids played together. We felt terrible for that kid, whose family later moved away.

What nobody could do was discuss any of it online or even in the workplace. Or in public beyond personal chit-chat. If you were courageous enough to say you were not concerned with wearing a mask and doubted the science behind it online (it is now pretty well established that it made no difference other than to serve as a virtue signaling device), you risked personal attack and banishment.

If you questioned the narrative of the origin of Covid from bats or pangolins in the wild, the results were even worse. And while we had ZERO interest in pharmaceuticals that were touted as possible preventatives, we saw and experienced societal rage at its height delivered to those who tried to mention any that were actively in use in other countries.

Add to that our kids really needed to get back to school. My wife and I tried to help our kids with remote schooling but if we got an hour of actual schoolwork out of them it was a victory. About half the kids in our kid’s schools simply never logged on and effectively got 3 extra months of summer vacation.

When school resumed in the fall it came with all kinds of silly rules to stop the spread of a disease that wasn’t going to be controlled and which everyone knew was largely of no consequence to children or their mostly young and healthy teachers. We all went along with it though, knowing the alternative was simply no education at all.

The loss of education that so many kids suffered through this ordeal is something we’ll never quite be able to rectify. I questioned online how kids with parents that couldn’t stay home and didn’t have reliable internet were going to be able to keep up, and we know that our school district was actually one of the first to force a return to the classroom while many stayed remote for years. Those questions were met with emotional rage rather than concern for the kids.

In the media and on social networks to question anything was grounds for being abused and banned. You couldn’t ask if it made sense to close every store in a town except the Walmart and to force everyone to use the same entrance. Did that actually encourage or discourage the spread? Did it matter? You couldn’t doubt anything or discuss anything and the world had created two cults of believers and deniers.

For the Covidians the disease was almost a religion of ‘health’ practices and virtue signaling. For the deniers the disease was the source of government control. For people like us, it was a real disease that I actually got twice but one that we had to just live with. We couldn’t and shouldn’t sustain all of these measures that weren’t working and that were having more negative consequences for society than the disease itself.

In 2021 I got vaccinated twice and six months later I got covid. I felt ill with fevers and lost my sense of smell. About 8 months later I got it again and had only a minor sore throat. Those are just factual statements from my life experience. Would you believe that my posting of those factual statements led to me being warned on a social network about spreading vaccine disinformation? At that point I decided that I was done and I know a lot of people came to that conclusion as well.

Anyway, this long post should not in the least cause anyone to have an emotional response. It’s life history and a look back at the era that we all endured. One that I hope we can all look back on and really discuss without all the emotion.

Being Dad

I was at the dentist today and was talking to the hygienist. She was a very nice and friendly person and we got onto the topic of, well, life.

We talked about all the things we like to do as a family and I told her, quite honestly, I’m not looking forward to my kids growing up and leaving home. I said I like being dad and doing activities with them, teaching them, giving them advice, and showing them the world.

She almost started to cry and she said it touched her. I didn’t think much of it other than that it is true.

I’m honestly glad to have these years to spend as dad and I’m looking forward to many activity-filled days to come. I want to have them come with me on my adventures local and distant for years and years to come. I hope someday even their spouses and grandkids come too.

Here’s to all our adventures.

Wildlife of Hawaii

Wildlife of Hawaii

Hawaii has an amazing diversity of sea life and endemic animals and plants found nowhere else. From the tops of lofty volcanoes to to a few feet beneath the waves the flora and fauna of Hawaii are colorful and unique. View the gallery…