Tag Archives: colorado

Return to Mount Elbert

In 2022, my son Daniel (then 16 years old) and I decided to hike Mount Elbert, the highest mountain in Colorado and the highest mountain in the Rocky Mountains at 14,440 ft. We began the hike a bit later than we intended (arriving at the trailhead at 7AM), and made our way to near the summit at almost noon.

When we were achingly close to the end (around a quarter mile and about 100 vertical feet) we were forced to turn around due to gathering storm clouds and visible lightning. Daniel pointed to the summit, only a short distance away and said “It’s right there!”, but I would not relent in refusing to allow us to finish the hike.

“The mountain will still be here”, I said, “but if we continue we may not.”

This year, we decided, would be the year we would officially stand atop the highest point in Colorado. But not just Daniel and I. We decided to make it family hike as part of a summer camping trip in July.

But just days before we were to depart for that July trip, the trail was closed due to the Willow wildfire that was burning in the Leadville area. It appeared that Elbert and the highest point in Colorado would remain a goal for yet another year.

Then as September rolled around, Daniel and I decided to just take a Saturday and go. The wildfire was out and the trail was open. The weather conditions were good. Why wait another year?

So we made a late Friday night drive to Leadville and spent about four hours sleeping so that we would not fail to be on the trail by 5:30 AM.

Despite the hastiness of our departure, I made sure we had everything we could possibly need to ensure success. Rain jackets, headlamps, hiking poles, stocking caps and gloves, first aid supplies, extra sunscreen, and plenty of snacks and water. We were not going to have a reason to have to turn around if I could control it. Our backpacks were a bit heavy, but we could handle it.

We started the hike in the darkness using headlamps to find our way. Starting in the dark was always our plan. If we could make it to the summit mid-morning there was even less of a chance that afternoon rain might turn us around. And Colorado mountain weather in early fall is notoriously unpredictable. A sunny day can change in an instant.

We saw the sun rise just as we arrived at timberline. Timberline in Colorado always seems to occur at 12,000 ft, which I find an interesting biological/geographical rule of thumb. My watch altimeter marked 12,000 as we took a brief moment to admire the sunrise and eat some of our breakfast snacks.

It was now 6:30 AM. Having covered the two fairly steep miles in 1.5 hours, mostly in the dark, we were perfectly on schedule. But the next 3 miles were going to be much more challenging.

Continuing onward, we made relatively good time and were at 13,000 feet. Once past 13,000 feet, the thin air really becomes a factor and progress slows considerably. I call it the “Go Slow Zone”. Ten steps, catch your breath, ten more steps, catch your breath again….

At about 8:45 AM, we finally arrived at the top of a false summit where the actual summit came into view. It was the very spot where we had turned around in 2022. But unlike 2022, storm clouds were still hours away and the path the the summit was right ahead of us.

It took only about five minutes to reach the summit from that spot. It only added to the feeling of disbelief over how close we truly were. But a least we could now say we were standing on the highest point in Colorado.

We had arrived on teh summit at about 9:00 AM, taking only 3.5 hours to achieve the summit. Not an easy task. Literally no one passed us on the way and we passed dozens of other hikers.

But we were feeling the exertion a lot more. The drive to finish the hike and reach the summit had led us to make the 4,500 foot vertical ascent faster than we would normally go. And truthfully, we were feeling it.

Starting down, we began to really appreciate just how steep the trail really is, something we had largely ignored on the way up. The poles helped steady us, but our knees began to tire. Finally, near a rock pile at 13,000 feet we took a genuine break.

I found some ptarmigans amid the rocks and as the first photo indicates, their plumage blends in amazingly well with the surroundings. We took time to eat more of our remaining snacks an rested a good while out of the wind, with several miles yet to descend.

It took another two hours to finally return to my truck as we slowed to a more leisurely pace in the forested area near the trailhead.

My watch said 12:30 PM when we finished the hike. We were unusually beat. The hike provided great scenery and we had accomplished our goal, but we had really pushed hard and were aching more than we had in 2022. Perhaps some of that is the four years I’ve aged since then, but Daniel was feeling pretty exhausted as well.

Daniel and I had lunch together in Leadville and contemplated what our next goal might be. Another 14er? Or a chill lake hike with the family? Whatever it may be, it will be great. And we’ll take our time.

Crested Butte: Easter Ski Adventure

Sometimes you just get lucky.

The winter of 2025-26 has been really warm and dry in Colorado and in much of the western states. The snowpack in Colorado is at the lowest level it has been at since the 1940s when the snowpack measurements were first recorded.

In December we decided to make reservations for Crested Butte over the Easter weekend. We’ve gone skiing in early April before (Keystone in 2019, Steamboat Springs in 2013, and even Snowbird in Utah in 2003). Of those trips only Steamboat was a bit scant on snow. Snowbird and Keystone had epic levels of snow those years.

So we were looking forward to good skiing at reduced lodging rates and with thinner crowds than in the prime of ski season.

The only problem was the snowfall levels across Colorado were incredibly low. So low that many resorts have closed early or shut down a number of runs. Even Crested Butte closed part of its terrain early due to low snowfall totals.

A week before our trip we saw video of bare ground under the ski lifts and all over the slopes. Rocks, grass, and baby trees. Was it even worth trying to ski? I planned to pack our hiking boots just in case we needed an alternate plan.

Well, mother nature came through for us. Crested Butte received 20 inches of snow the day before we arrived. Enough snow to basically return the runs to a pretty decent shape for a good day of skiing.

So we got out on the slopes post-snowstorm in 50 degree weather on closing weekend. And we had as much fun as I can remember having on a day of skiing.

Warm enough to ski in a hooded sweatshirt without a coat (some skiers were wearing even less). Crowds thin on the slopes and no lines to ride the lifts. We were down and up more times than I can remember on one day and skied more trails than I remember in one day too.

Six hours of skiing with only a short break for lunch. My son now old enough to go on his own or with me as he pleased. My wife able to enjoy the resort, have coffees and meet us for lunch without crowds or cold weather. By the end of the day we were plenty sunburned and tired but pretty darn happy.

As usual we also saw a lot of wildlife in our short visit to Crested Butte too We saw a fox right outside our hotel room, some moose just down the street from the hotel, and some bighorns and a heron on the drive back home.

And we made a morning stop at Paradise Cafe (but it wasn’t quite as good this time).

A close-up of a table setting at a restaurant featuring a cup of coffee topped with foam, a glass water bottle, and a cup of whipped cream. The menu titled 'BREAKFAST' is visible in the foreground.

Overall though, it was a good trip. We vow to NOT wait until the end of ski season next year.

And I think we’ll visit Crested Butte in the summer too.

Hiking to Rocky Mountain’s Sky Pond

When autumn arrives in Colorado, we love to visit the high country to enjoy the vibrant colors that light up the mountain sides. One of the best places to enjoy the leaves of gold is Rocky Mountain National Park.

My 19-year-old, college student son Daniel and I spent the prior night in Estes Park, right outside Rocky Mountain. I had planned out the trip in advance and got Bear Lake Road reservations on August 1st, the moment the reservations become available for dates in September (they are gone within minutes for weekends in the summer and fall). We stopped briefly to get some gas and a quick bite of fast food breakfast, then entered the park at first morning’s light.

After passing the checkpoint to verify our access reservations we drove up to the parking area near the Glacier Gorge trailhead (which leads to Sky Pond), but unsurprisingly the small parking area was already full. We then continued onward to the much larger Bear Lake parking lot further up the road and found it was already completely full as well. We were far from the only early morning hikers ready to enjoy the fall colors.

On the drive up I saw a small parking area just below Glacier Gorge and told my son to drive back down to it, hoping that there would still be a place left there while cars passed us heading up to the full lots above. Sure enough, there was a spot left for us at this little parking area about 3/4 miles below the trailhead. A little extra hiking wouldn’t hurt us a bit.

We started down the trail and made fairly good time as we passed by Alberta Falls in the first mile, then The Loch at about 3 miles, the first of the lakes along the way to Sky Pond.

The trail passed alongside The Loch and after another mile we arrived at the point where the trail becomes a bit more challenging. You must climb a small cliff alongside Timberline Falls with cold water tumbling onto the rocks along the way. We made it fairly easily to the top of the cliff where we were rewarded with the sight of The Lake of Glass.

Many hikers mistake the smaller Lake of Glass for Sky Pond, but the trail continues onward past some boulders that obscure the path at the outset. Following alongside the Lake of Glass we ascended a bit further to arrive at Sky Pond.

With the jagged Shark’s Tooth piercing the sky above the lake, we knew we had arrived. Years before, when he was a seventh grader, we had tried the very same hike but had been turned back at deep snow at Timberline Falls. This time, at the right time of year, we had succeeded and could cross this bucket list Colorado hike off our list.

On the hike back we saw some pika hiding amid the rocks and some trout swimming casually in the Loch. The weather was pleasantly warm and and we would be well ahead of any afternoon rain that might move in.

It was a pretty easy-going hike for the both of us, and a good way to usher in the fall.

Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument

In Colorado there are four national parks and numerous national monuments, historic sites, and recreation areas. Florissant Fossil Beds is a small national monument in central Colorado, just west of Pikes Peak.

Florissant Fossil Beds is a unique and enjoyable place in a relatively quiet spot in Colorado. This December we made our second ever visit to the monument and saw that it had a new visitor center and a more expansive trail system.

We were last at Florissant Fossil Beds in 2012. At the time Shelley was pregnant with our youngest son Evan, who was born in December of 2012, almost exactly twelve years prior to our most recent visit. For Evan, this was his first real chance to visit the monument even though he was phyically there the last time 🙂

We found that in the intervening years a nice new visitor center had been built and we took some time to peruse the exhibits inside, learning quite a lot about the history of the monument and the many fossils that have been found at the site. We learned for instance that more butterfly fossils have been found at Florissant than anywhere else in the world.

Once we stepped out of the visitor center we made our way to the primary attraction that makes Florissant famous: the great, fossilized redwood stumps.

Redwoods?

Yes, Fifty million years ago the climate of central Colorado was warmer and more humid, though the elevation was still quite high. The climatic conditions allowed huge redwood forests to thrive in what is now a dry, alpine environment.

The redwoods were fossilized by a volcanic eruption that happened about thirty miles from the current site of the monument. That volcano is now extinct, but the ash fall that accumulated at their base ensured that the stumps would remain to the present day.

There are several redwood stumps to be seen within a one mile perimeter of the visitor center. Two are only about one hundred feet away, covered by the protective roof. One of these is a triple trunk that originates from a single base.

To see the others, we took a leisurely stroll along the one mile Petrified Forest Loop Trail. Along the way is the most famous of the stumps, called the “Big Stump”. This stump still bears the rusted remnants of a saw blade from a century old attempt to cut into it. Fortunately that attempt failed and the stump remains for our enjoyment today.

I highly recommend visiting Florissant if you are in this area of Colorado. It’s quiet and relaxing compared to many of the more famous attractions in the state and quite interesting. For us it was also kind of fun to bring Evan there so close to his birthday to reminisce and give him the chance to appreciate the park.

Colorado has many terrific national park sites and we decided to try our best to visit as many as we can in 2025. We think we can visit all four national parks in 2025, and we’ll hit many of the national monuments as well. We’ll share our journeys as we go.

Steamboat Lake Camping

Could we really go through the year without a single camping trip? No. That would be wrong.  Human beings need to get away from the comforts of a climate controlled house and experience the outdoors.  Tents force us to do that.

We love Steamboat Lake State Park in Routt County, Colorado.  It’s a beautiful lake not far from the Wyoming border surrounded by mountains and forests and not a lot else.  It has a marina that rents kayaks and paddleboards. 

Of course we kayaked.  We also tried fishing.  No bites.  But I was happy my 11-year-old wanted to try it and we’ll give it a go at another lake. 

We also cooked every meal at the campsite.  Usually we have a couple meals and then drive into town for a restaurant meal.  This time we tried making cast iron skillet pizza and brought a portable charcoal grill for steak and chicken, as well as our gas stove for pancakes and to heat water for morning coffee.

The Milky Way was visible in the night sky and I did my best to photograph it with my phone, along with numerous critters large and small.

Overall we enjoyed it a lot.  We all need to disconnect more.  Tent camping means dealing with freezing nights and hot days and making due with whatever tool works because you forgot something.

I definitely don’t feel done getting out into the mountains this year.  And hopefully camping.  The weather is going to change so we’ll  have to go soon.  I always feel good coming back to regular life after roughing it or challenging myself on trails.  That’s the reason we do it.

Quandary Peak Trail

This past August weekend I decided I needed to do a bit of Colorado mountain hiking before the short season ends. August is the prime month for 14er hikes since the weather is warm and the snow cover has almost entirely melted off of the peaks.

I didn’t have time to make a multi-day trip so I decided to return to a peak that I hiked back in 2018: Quandary Peak. Quandary Peak is located just south of Breckenridge and is the 13th highest peak in Colorado at 14,265 feet. It is probably the most climbed 14er in Colorado due to its accessibility and relatively short 6.5 mile round-trip trail distance, but its still a good challenge with a 3300 foot elevation gain.

The last time I did this hike there were numerous mountain goats nonchalantly hanging out near and on the trail. The presence of the goats is another factor in the trail’s popularity. Unfortunately on this hike the mountain goats were nowhere to be seen. Pikas, however, were abundant, as you can see in the photos below.

Also, having completed six 14er hikes now, I’ve never encountered wind as strong as what I encountered on this hike. A very strong westerly wind was blowing right down the trail and really added to the difficulty. The prior time I did the trail the wind was minimal and it was much easier, even if a light snow was falling at the summit.

Quandary Peak Trail

The DeCaLiBron Loop

I have a new hike to add to my list of The Greatest Day Hikes in the USA. The DeCaLiBron Loop is a 7.6 mile hike that leads to the summits of four of Colorado’s 14er mountains. The trailhead is located at Kite Lake, which is up a 4-wheel drive road from Fairplay, CO.

7.6 miles isn’t usually that difficult, but the elevation changes as you summit one mountain, descend and reascend the next one make it challenging. My teenage son and I were both pretty tired after completing the hike.

You can complete the hike in either direction, starting with Mount Democrat, then continuing to Mount Cameron, Mount Lincoln, and finally Mount Bross. Or you can do them in reverse, as we did. I don’t think there is an advantage in going in either direction, but the scenery might be better going in the reverse direction.

There are a couple things to know in advance before starting this hike. The first is that once you start it and advance past the first summit there is no quick return to the trailhead. Thus you must keep an eye on the weather and start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms. We saw people arriving at 10AM and hopefully they weren’t trying to hike more than one mountain.

The other thing to know is the trail and the mountains themselves are on private land. Because of a recent lawsuit private landowners are reluctant to allow the public to use trails on their land. Fortunately the landowner is allowing the public to use the trail as long as they complete this online form the day of the hike: https://waiver.smartwaiver.com/w/c2d3wpisftzvbznpjhsbnb/kiosk/ .

My son and I battled through the wind and cold, the altitude, steep terrain and later the heat and loose rocks to complete the loop. Overall it’s something to be proud of once you finish it.

I included a video of our hike below the gallery.

A Trip Up Mount Evans

Despite living in Colorado for 12 years, we had not yet driven up the Mount Evans Scenic Highway as a family. With summer winding down I decided it was time to finally do this before winter set in (the road is only open a couple months each year in the mid to late summer).

I had once before taken a drive up to the summit with my older brother all the way back in 1997 when I was in college. Now twenty-six years later I wanted to take my family to the top to enjoy the scenery and the alpine wildlife, which frequently includes mountain goats, bighorn sheep, marmots, and pika.

We actually had more of an experience than we planned on. We hit a torrential downpour on the I-70 west of Denver that cleared up before we took the road south toward the mountain at Idaho Springs. Then we hit some of the thickest fog we’ve ever driven through. Still, like many others on the road that day, we carried on with a can-do spirit and had a really enjoyable time, even if we couldn’t see for a hundred miles.

We saw plenty of mountain goats and I took the short hike to the very top to get a photo of the very worn survey marker. When the clouds did part we had some fleeting vistas with impressive displays of light and cloud.

We made a fun video that’s included below.

Seven Falls and Manitou Springs

My wife and I decided to spend an anniversary evening down in the Colorado Springs, Colorado area. Though we only live about 40 miles away and have been to Colorado Springs many times, we had never been to Seven Falls. I decided to get us reservations at the Restaurant 1858 at the base of the falls and we could then walk up the stairs alongside the falls.

The food at Restaurant 1858 was a bit pricey and we were a tad underwhelmed, but we enjoyed our dinner nonetheless. I climbed the stairs to the top in nice clothes while many other visitors were dressed in hiking garb. No problem for me, of course, surmounting the 300 steps dressed for success.

The Seven Falls are the property of the Broadmoor which owns quite a lot of Colorado Springs tourist properties including the Pikes Peak Cog Railway. The charge $18 per adult just to see the falls and to go to the restaurant. The Broadmoor’s power in Colorado Springs is controversial but it doesn’t appear to have any desire to relinquish control of the Seven Falls or the Cog Railway.

After enjoying dinner and the falls we drove to Manitou Springs and our hotel: The Cliff House. The Cliff House is a historic hotel in the historic town of Manitou Springs.

The Cliff House dates back to the late 1800s and has rooms dedicated to many of its past famous guests: Buffalo Bill, Theodore Roosevelt, Thomas Edison, and more. We initially had reserved a Junior Suite for the night but received a free upgrade to a King Deluxe room. I made a room tour video as well (there was a wedding at the hotel and I think they upgraded us to be away from the noise at the other end of the hotel as a courtesy).

The following morning we had some time to walk around the small town of Manitou Springs and had a quick breakfast at a coffee shop. It’s a nice little town although it does get very crowded in the summer tourist season.

Overall we had a very good anniversary evening and enjoyed our time at the hotel.

Backyard Birds

This evening I was able to photograph a a few of our feathered friends from in my backyard. Every year we have a return of the cliff swallows to a nest they built on our gutter. This time I was able to not only see the parent birds but the growing baby bird within.

Also we had a lot of ruby-throated hummingbirds fluttering around and I was able to get some nice images of them perched and one taking flight.