I thought it would be fun to try making a lifelike representation of Hatshepsut, the Egyptian Queen who reigned in the Middle Kingdom roughly 4000 years ago. I used a statue of her as a reference as well as contemporary artifacts including the headdress and banded necklace that would have been worn by pharaohs.
Several years from now I hope to be able to travel to Egypt and see the Temple of Hatshepsut in Luxor, along with the Valley of Kings and other amazing sites from ancient Egypt.
Could we really go through the year without a single camping trip? No. That would be wrong. Human beings need to get away from the comforts of a climate controlled house and experience the outdoors. Tents force us to do that.
We love Steamboat Lake State Park in Routt County, Colorado. It’s a beautiful lake not far from the Wyoming border surrounded by mountains and forests and not a lot else. It has a marina that rents kayaks and paddleboards.
Of course we kayaked. We also tried fishing. No bites. But I was happy my 11-year-old wanted to try it and we’ll give it a go at another lake.
We also cooked every meal at the campsite. Usually we have a couple meals and then drive into town for a restaurant meal. This time we tried making cast iron skillet pizza and brought a portable charcoal grill for steak and chicken, as well as our gas stove for pancakes and to heat water for morning coffee.
The Milky Way was visible in the night sky and I did my best to photograph it with my phone, along with numerous critters large and small.
Overall we enjoyed it a lot. We all need to disconnect more. Tent camping means dealing with freezing nights and hot days and making due with whatever tool works because you forgot something.
I definitely don’t feel done getting out into the mountains this year. And hopefully camping. The weather is going to change so we’ll have to go soon. I always feel good coming back to regular life after roughing it or challenging myself on trails. That’s the reason we do it.
This past August weekend I decided I needed to do a bit of Colorado mountain hiking before the short season ends. August is the prime month for 14er hikes since the weather is warm and the snow cover has almost entirely melted off of the peaks.
I didn’t have time to make a multi-day trip so I decided to return to a peak that I hiked back in 2018: Quandary Peak. Quandary Peak is located just south of Breckenridge and is the 13th highest peak in Colorado at 14,265 feet. It is probably the most climbed 14er in Colorado due to its accessibility and relatively short 6.5 mile round-trip trail distance, but its still a good challenge with a 3300 foot elevation gain.
The last time I did this hike there were numerous mountain goats nonchalantly hanging out near and on the trail. The presence of the goats is another factor in the trail’s popularity. Unfortunately on this hike the mountain goats were nowhere to be seen. Pikas, however, were abundant, as you can see in the photos below.
Also, having completed six 14er hikes now, I’ve never encountered wind as strong as what I encountered on this hike. A very strong westerly wind was blowing right down the trail and really added to the difficulty. The prior time I did the trail the wind was minimal and it was much easier, even if a light snow was falling at the summit.
I mentioned in the last post that after two nights in Athens our Europe trip was finally at an end. We had started with a canceled flight to Barcelona, Spain that we were lucky to rebook and through it all we had made it to the end.
Our flight was scheduled to depart from Athens at 12:45 PM with a connection in Munich, Germany on Lufthansa. From Munich we’d have an hour and a half to make the connection to a United flight back to Denver.
We packed up and went out as a family to get coffee and pastries. We were finally getting an understanding of how to order coffee in Greece that was more to our taste. We’re accustomed to lattes back home and realized that in Greece and Italy you had to order coffee with sugar and milk. A decent coffee with a good pastry made the impending long flights that much easier.
With an hour to burn I made one last walk to Philopappos Hill. A quick saunter up the shaded, forest trails seemed just what I needed. And this time I found what I missed the last time: The Prison of Socrates.
In a cliff face a short distance up one of the trails were three small caves with metal bars blocking their entrance. Now, whether these caves ever contained the imprisoned philosopher Socrates is not known for certain, but the ‘cells’ date to the 5th century BC. If there were no other jails in the region of Athens to house Socrates, it’s certainly possible.
Having discovered this last historic site, at the last possible moment, I walked quickly back to the hotel room. I had made a reservation with Welcome Pickups in advance and messaged the driver. He responded that he was on his way. Sure enough he arrived right on time, and had driven onto the ‘pedestrian area’ to meet us. We quickly loaded our luggage into the van and were off to the airport.
The driver was full of good information that might have benefitted us earlier, like to use the metro and not to take taxis. Oh well, we might be back some day. We also discussed Greek politics and the graffiti. Useless politicians and bored teenagers are a problem everywhere.
Once we arrived at the airport we checked our suitcases and got through security without a hitch. We’d be home in twelve long hours. Arriving the same day we departed after the time zone change.
We boarded the Lufthansa flight and then we heard the news. We were going to be delayed 50 minutes. There were thunderstorms in Germany and flights were delayed to and from Munich.
Our connection was going to be tight. We’d have only about 30 minutes to clear passport control and make it to the next gate.
We landed in Munich and there was another short delay just connecting the bridge to the plane. After five more agonizing minutes we were able to deplane and started the jog through the airport to passport control and the connecting gate.
We got to the passport control and watched the minutes tick by. By the time we finally got our passports stamped, we had about 25 minutes left. Just enough time.
We ran toward the United gate. And then we were stopped. The gates were closed. The flight was still there but we could not board. This United flight was also delayed, but still we could not board.
We turned around in aggravation. I mean, we knew this was the likely outcome the moment the 50 minute delay was announced at the Athens airport, but still it was confounding.
We walked back to the Lufthansa customer service desks and after about 30 minutes of rebooking we were set on an Air France flight departing the next day, with a connection in Paris. They booked us into a hotel near the airport.
I guess we’re going to get a night in Munich. Do we have time to take the train to the city?
We were hungry and tired. We called and let our family know we’d not be in until the following day. Then we got some much needed beer and brats and pretzels at the airport.
After eating we went to gather our luggage and go through passport control to leave the airport. Passport control again? The girl working there was really nice, at least.
Once outside we waited 30 minutes curbside for a shuttle to the hotel that pulled into the wrong spot. We had been literally the first people to arrive there waiting and yes, we pushed our way onboard. The driver barked at us and we barked back that we were there first, before all the others that pushed past us to get on board. We were tired of getting pushed aside and people not waiting their turn.
We rode to the hotel and found that Lufthansa put us in a cheap hotel in a nearby town called Schwaig that didn’t even have air-conditioned rooms. We opened the window to let whatever breeze was there to come in. At least the bathroom was decently sized.
Sigh. Well, they were giving us free dinner too.
We went to the dining area to find that the hotel was serving cheap, canned food to the travelers that Lufthansa had put up in the hotel for the night. Ok, enough of this. There are restaurants in walking distance. We’re getting real German food and enjoying some German beer.
We walked outside and the town of Schwaig is really quite pretty and quaint. A typical Bavarian town. Surely we could find a beer garden here.
And we did. We sat outside in a pleasant beer garden with massive trees shading us overhead. It reminded me of when I was young and lived in the rural Midwest. Quiet, relaxed, just the way we wanted it. We could hear church bells tolling every half hour. From somewhere nearby.
Except for the mosquitoes it seemed ideal. I could tolerate them if the beers were delicious. And they were.
But for food we’d have to walk back to the other restaurant a short distance away.
We finished our beers and then walked back to what we thought would be another German restaurant. Instead it was an Italian restaurant.
But we wanted German food. We already went to Italy and ate Italian food there. Oh well, the waitress was German. And the pizza was pretty good.
After walking back to the cheap hotel with the stuffy room, we crashed for the night, while mosquitoes flew in the open window to bite us in our sleep. Sigh. It was like camping in a hotel.
The next morning we had a little time before our shuttle back to the airport. I decided I wanted to explore Schwaig a little. Just to see a little more of the Bavarian town before we departed.
I walked a mile or so around the town near the hotel. I found the church tower from which the bells could be heard the prior day. I found a pretty neat town sign of stacked houses and toy characters of various kinds that somewhat told the story of Schwaig. And lots of doves too.
When it was time to go I went back to the hotel room, glad to be leaving it and its stuffiness. Lufthansa, you cheap bastards.
Once back at the airport we checked into Air France. We checked everything in. No more carry-ons this time.
We had another tight connection window in Paris. If we were delayed at all, we’d be spending another night in another country. At least we were getting the Grand Tour of Europe.
Once we arrived we had another long, slow passport control line. We were going to be late. We were going to be sleeping the night in Paris. Without time to actually see Paris. Sigh.
For once though, we had a stroke of luck. The Air France flight to Denver was also delayed and we had arrived in time for our flight because of the delay. After a spastic run to the gate we could finally relax. We were going home.
Eight hours later we arrived back in Denver. The crazy journey was at an end.
I have never returned from a family vacation (if that is what it was) after enduring so many emotional highs and lows. The trip was exhausting and terrific. It was mentally taxing and cause for celebration. It wore us down and gave us feelings of elation and great satisfaction.
I’m proud that we hung in there and overcame all of the ridiculous mishaps. I am also proud of everything we saw and did. I am proud that all of my planning had worked out for us on so many occasions.
We have the pictures to prove we saw and did everything we could, no matter how many stupid things happened. And we were smiling through it al….well, at least most of it.
So what does it all mean to us? That we’re far from done traveling the world. And we’ll never stop looking for adventures. That’s who we are.
I mentioned in the prior post that we were staying in the best spot in the entire city. And literally, we were about 50 feet from the entrance line to the Acropolis. And that was where we were going that morning as soon as the gate opened.
We bought skip-the-line tickets to the Acropolis, Agora, and Temple of Olympian Zeus about 2 months before the trip and were ready to visit each of these places on our final day of the trip. But first, while everyone else was on their way to the Acropolis in taxis and on the metro, we were having a quick breakfast on the roof of the Kyria Boutique House, admiring the Parthenon above us.
I mean, it wasn’t the greatest breakfast ever and the stairway to the roof was a little bit like ascending a medieval castle, but it was certainly good and we didn’t exactly have far to walk that morning.
After satiating ourselves, we left the hotel and joined the line.
Then unjoined the line.
Wait, we have skip-the-line tickets from Tiquets. Why are we in line? We’re special. We have skip-the-line tickets.
So does everyone else.
It’s just a gimmick. We all have to wait in line until they open the gates.
Once the gates were opened we started the highly anticipated walk up to the top of the Acropolis. This was the day we had most anticipated the entire trip. We’re going to see the Parthenon. I made a wooden model of it in school in 9th grade. I also wrote a report about the Ancient Olympics in 8th grade and still remember the details of it.
I have triumphant background music playing in the video once we arrive at the top of the Acropolis. It meant a LOT to us. It was a long trip, with endless challenges that began even before we left.
The Temple of Athena Nike. Athena Victorious. Our Victory. At last, here we were on the last day of our trip. We overcame canceled flights, lost phones, injured arms, and through it all we stuck to the plan and made it to the Acropolis.
There was no stopping the crowds but at least we were there as early as we could be and we could enjoy the moment to take in the Parthenon, and the Erechtheion, and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus (the amphitheater), and the Temple of Athena Nike, and the Propylaea in the cooler morning air.
We strolled around to each of the monuments. We went to see the olive tree planted next to the Erechtheion which symbolized the founding of Athens and the gift of an olive tree by Athena. We saw the replacement caryatids still holding aloft the Erechtheion porch. We saw the hugeness of the Parthenon and the sheer scope of Athens that surrounded us in every direction.
Since we sped past the Odeon on the way up, we walked back down a ways to enjoy the ancient theater that is still in use today. A concert pianist was already tuning his piano below us.
After an hour the crowds had really overtaken the hilltop, but we were ready to continue on. The Greek Agora awaited.
We followed a trail down from the hilltop and enjoyed the nature on the north slope of the Acropolis. Was that a magpie? They look just the same at home in Colorado. We saw a hoopoe, a bird I’d never seen before and never knew existed. And then a tortoise. Lots of creatures make their homes in historic Athens.
We were ready for a cool drink and restaurant between the Acropolis and Agora looked like just the place. A couple granitas and a couple milk shakes. Well earned. Kind of a celebration in a way.
Everything felt pretty good for a change. We weren’t in a rush. We weren’t worried about the ship schedule. We had all day. The Greek Agora was only just down the hill. Diogenes was waiting for us.
There are actually two ancient agoras in Athens. The Greek Agora and the Roman Agora. Only in Athens is the Roman Agora somehow that boring modern one. Actually, it’s not boring at all, but we wanted to visit the ancient Greek Agora.
The Greek Agora has two fantastic buildings that warrant the most attention. First there is the Stoa of Attalos which was reconstructed in the 1950s but which dates back to to ~150 BC. There is a very good museum in the building with some fascinating artifacts.
The second is the Temple of Hephaestus. This is probably the best preserved temple that dates back to Classical Greece. The structure is almost completely intact. The interior edifice walls still stand unlike the Parthenon. It’s an amazing structure to walk around and view up close.
There is also a really pretty Greek Orthodox church in the agora that dates back to 1000 AD (The Church of the Holy Apostles of Solakis).
The rest of the agora is largely in ruins and you have to use your imagination to rebuild the markets and temples in your mind. The Agora also offers plenty of natural foliage for visitors (including olive trees) and a respite from the hustle and bustle of Athens outside. From the Temple of Hephaestus there is a great view of the Acropolis above.
Once we were finished with our visit to the Agora, we stopped at a nearby restaurant for lunch. I had Moussaka for the first time to augment my Greek dining accomplishments.
The rest of the family was tired and hot. And actually so was I. We were ready to head back to the hotel. We stopped a few times for souvenirs, of course. We passed the Roman Agora and the cylindrical Horologion of Andronikos. And enjoyed more of colorful the colorful Plaka neighborhood on the way.
Once we got back to the hotel, we all took an hour to rest. Once that hour passed, I asked the others if they wanted to join me on a walk to Panathenaic Stadium. They declined. It was ok. But I felt a need to go.
The Temple of Olympian Zeus was included on our ticket package that I bought and since it was along the way to Panathenaic Stadium, I stopped in to see it.
The Temple was absolutely huge when in was constructed, but now most all of it is gone. Still, the columns that remain are enough to give an indication of just how enormous it once was.
Unfortunately, unlike the Acropolis and Agora, there just wasn’t a lot to see at the Temple. So I continued on to Panathenaic Stadium.
I had to cross a couple busy streets, but otherwise the walk from Plaka to the stadium was easy. I really felt it was an important last stop on the trip and I’m glad I went, no matter how hot it was (about 100F).
The history of Panathenaic Stadium is really the history of the modern Olympics. The stadium dates back to 200 AD when it was built during Roman occupation. The stadium was reconstructed for the 1896 games and it was used again for certain events like the Marathon finale in the 2004 games.
Again though it was hot I could not resist running a lap. And I climbed up the steep stairs to the upper level. It felt good to be there.
Then I made the walk back to the hotel to rejoin the family. I had done everything on the trip that I had planned to do. Now we could all have a relaxing dinner and say goodbye to Athens, to Greece, and to Europe. Tomorrow we’d be flying home.
Once I got to the hotel I showered and got dressed in fresh clothes. We debated where to have dinner. Shelley looked on her phone and suggested a place that was a short distance away outside. Since we all weren’t quite ready to go to dinner just yet I said I’d go take a look and see if it looked good.
And I did that. And the other restaurants next to it looked good too. But really I just had to take one last stroll. To Philopappus Hill.
Long before the trip began I saw that there was an interesting park and hill just past the lane that separated the Acropolis from the Acropolis Museum. I sauntered up there and then up a wilderness trail to a wonderful overlook.
I took some photos and felt sublime. Now I was ready to go back to the hotel and have dinner.
We had another good Greek dinner. I wanted to sit outside but we were seated inside. Grumble. Oh well. We had some much deserved alcoholic beverages.
Then we bought some gelato and a few more souvenirs. Now we were good. Ready to go to bed and start home tomorrow.
I think of all the places we were going to be visiting on the trip, the one that most excited me was Athens. The reason was simple: it had the most bucket list sites and I had never been there.
Our NCL ship docked early at the port of Piraeus and with our luggage in hand we set about the process of self-debarkation. It was rather easy since we were literally one story above the exit gangway and didn’t need to use the elevators (which are always packed on embarkation and debarkation day).
Almost every time we’ve ben on a cruise the last day has been rather depressing. But knowing we had two days to enjoy Athens, and having gotten to the point we had in dealing with lackluster food, pushy people, and generally unfriendly staff, we were ready to get off the ship and be done with the cruise.
We had paid more to go on a Norwegian cruise and at the end of the cruise I can genuinely say that the only great thing about it was the itinerary. The food quality was subpar except at Cagney’s Steakhouse, the shipboard entertainment was pathetic, and we never even bothered trying to use the pool because we were kind of jaded by the pushy, rude people on the decks and around the ship.
Once off the ship we set about finding our driver who would take us to our hotel in the Plaka district. We found him and he helped us load our luggage and ourselves into the van for the drive to the city.
Driving into Athens was interesting. The city was certainly sprawling and full of graffiti. I mean, covered in it in places. It was somewhat unsettling.
Plaka, he told us, was one of the most beautiful places in Athens. We had chosen well. That was something I was counting on. I wanted to be as close to the major sites as possible, in a district that offered plenty of good restaurants.
As we neared the hotel he told us he could not drive all the way to the hotel itself. There was a pedestrian walkway that led to it. All we needed to do was going about 100 feet up the walkway and the hotel would be on the corner.
We exited with our luggage and found that the pedestrian walkway was indeed the case, and yet other drivers would in fact drive the narrow path causing some startled looks from pedestrians. Was it a walkway or a street?
The Kyria Boutique House was right on the corner. Well actually the doorway was right next to the souvenir shop on the corner. We arrived at the door and after a quick Whats App message the maid appeared to allow us to stow our luggage. It wasn’t yet even 9:00 AM and way too early to check in.
I chose the Kyria Boutique House because of the location and chose the largest suite room for our family. Two rooms and a big bathroom with a tub. Ideal for a family of four
But the location. I kid you not, the location is the best probably in the entire city. From the doorway to our room we literally needed to walk about fifty feet to the entrance of the Acropolis and the Acropolis Museum was just a tiny bit farther on the opposite side. We could walk to dozens of restaurants and souvenir shops. The location was utterly fantastic. Just what I intended.
With our luggage safely stowed we could visit the Acropolis Museum. The museum opened at 9:00 but our debarkation and trip to the hotel had gone so effortlessly well we were in line before the museum even opened.
People were gathering on the steps in front of the museum and we took our place there as well. It was good to be there when the museum opened because the museum was sure to get crowded shortly thereafter.
Once inside we found that we needed to check our backpacks in at the entrance. No big deal. I had a smaller, sling pack I bought on Amazon that was allowed in the museum, and into which I could put everything I needed for perusing the museum. Including my GoPro.
The Acropolis Museum contains the treasures taken from the Acropolis on the hill next door. Well, almost all the treasures. The Elgin Marbles aren’t here yet.
The museum collections are fascinating of course. We often think of the statues as having been colorless marble, but in many originally were painted and traces of the original colors can still be seen. In certain cases the museum displayed a reproduction to show how it would have looked with color.
The museum collection also spans centuries, as does the history of Athens. Classical Athens which covered the period from about 500 BC until around 300 BC is the most represented, as would be expected since the great monuments on the hill above were largely constructed in this time frame.
Before coming to the museum I had heard about the Caryatids and in particular their complex hairstyles. It’s interesting to think that women in ancient Greece might actually have had hair long enough to be styled in such a manner.
Regardless of whether the hairstyle was really possible, the statues are something to behold, as well as the fact that for over 2400 years they supported the weight of the Erechtheion Porch on the Acropolis. Now they are safely inside and replicas stand in their place.
After we had a rather slow breakfast in the museum cafeteria, we spent some time viewing the area below the museum. There is not a single area of the modern city that doesn’t have history buried beneath it. And that includes the ground below which the museum stands.
Beneath the museum are the ruins of an ancient neighborhood dating back to Roman and Byzantine times. The entire museum is supported by pillars just over these ancient dwellings.
As it was now approaching lunch time, and it was still not yet time to check in to the hotel, we wandered down one of the Plaka streets to find something to eat and drink. It was hot and a cool drink would help. Athens is always very hot in the summer, though we were fortunate to have arrived after a heat wave the prior week.
As we sat there eating, a tour group appeared behind us. The guide was talking about the craziest Athenian of all: Diogenes. We knew right away who he was talking about. He’s our favorite philosopher. If that term applies to a guy that lived in a barrel in the Agora. Because he wanted to avoid earthly comforts. Or so he claimed.
So after eating and discussing Diogenes and whether or not we’d find his barrel the next day in the Agora, we were ready to check in. We walked over to the hotel and were finally able to crash in our terrific suite. Right in the heart of everything and yet somehow quietly away from it all once inside. The perfect place to be in Athens.
We took some time to rest and relax. We were far from done that day, of course. But it does help to have some air conditioning to counter the midday sun in Athens.
Once we were fully rested, or rested enough, we walked down to the outside to a taxi stand. We overpaid for a ride to the National Museum of Archaeology. But getting there was worth it.
If you go to only one museum in your time in Athens (which would be a shame), it needs to be this one. As good as the Acropolis Museum was, it paled in comparison to the National Archaeological Museum.
The collections in the museum cover all of Greece, through every era of its history. You’ll find Minoan artifacts, artifacts from Troy (yes, the city burned in the Illiad and Odyssey), artifacts from Mycenaean graves including the death mask that Heinrich Schliemann called the Mask of Agamemnom.
You’ll see the evolution of Greek art as it became more sophisticated and they began making statues. You can see the artistry grow ever more intricate over time and by the late Classical and Roman era the statues are utterly beautiful (look at the statue of the girl resting).
Finally, there is the artifact that was the inspiration for the Dial of Destiny in the latest Indiana Jones: the Antikythera Mechanism. Of course modern research has determined that it was actually useful for tracking moon phases, which is an incredibly sophisticated achievement in itself. As well as a replica of Ptolemy’s astrolabe.
So by the time we were finished exploring we felt pretty convinced that this museum was the best we’d seen in Greece.
You can use Uber in Athens and it turned out to be the easier and cheaper way to hail a taxi. For half the price of our ride to the museum we got a ride back to our hotel. We walked a short distance and found a place tucked away beneath the hustle and bustle in the neighborhood above.
The restaurant was a bit pricy and kind of pretentious (we don’t really care what famous person ate there – especially if it’s a politician), but we were all feeling good and looking forward to exploring Athens more the next day.
Somehow along the way we had been managing to overcome a number of challenges throughout the trip, and one of those was Shelley’s fall. She was wearing a sling on her right arm and was reliant on pain medication to get through each day, but we were still able to continue on with our plans for the most part.
When it came to Mykonos, however, my original plan was to take a small sailboat excursion (basically a private tour) from Mykonos to Delos and Rhenia Island (a nearby uninhabited island with beaches). We intended to visit the archaeological site of Delos on our own and then snorkel, swim and lounge on the beach at Rhenia for a couple hours.
The problem was it wasn’t a very easy tour to do now that she was injured. The boat would dock at Delos, but it would not dock at Rhenia Island. She would need to climb in and out of the boat, something I knew she could no longer do. Besides that, the Aegean Sea was choppy as the winds were picking up and we’d certainly have to hang on to the boat in rough seas.
Strangely, we got a blessing in disguise. The tour operator contacted us the night before to tell us that he would not be running our tour at the reserved time and we would have to take a late afternoon tour. Since we were on a cruise, that was not possible. We then contacted Viator and were able to cancel with a full refund since we were unable to continue with the originally planned tour.
So what now? The cruise ship had a guided tour of Delos still available to book. Taking this tour would mean no beach time or snorkeling, but it was a little less expensive and we’d have a guided tour of Delos. As I mentioned earlier, having a guided tour of ruins really helps in interpreting and understanding them.
So we booked the ship excursion to Delos the night before and were set for the next day.
Mykonos has an Old Port and a New Port. The cruise ships dock at the New Port, which is about a mile away from the Old Port where the ferries depart for Delos, and where the historic town is accessible.
Since we booked through the cruise ship the transfer ferry ride from the New Port to the Old Port was taken care of for us. Sometimes it’s just easier to use the ship’s excursion in certain places.
Once we arrived at the Old Port we disembarked and walked over to the ferry that would transfer us to Delos. It was a larger ferry that could hold a couple hundred passengers. It was fortunately not full (we would end up being the first ship to arrive in Delos that day), but I was glad it was a substantial ship nonetheless.
The Aegean Sea was very rough on the crossing and the big boat was rocking quite a lot. The Cyclades Islands are known for being windy and Mykonos was thus far not disappointing. The winds were actually something of a relief though because the prior two days had been stifling and a bit of wind felt good once we were on land. As the day went along the wind and the seas did subside quite a bit.
When we arrived at Delos I was surprised, but glad, to see we were the first visitors to the archaeological site. Usually the group tours arrive after the smaller private tours, but the ship’s excursion was already showing itself to be well-organized and worth the cost.
We had been traveling backward in time since the start of the trip and now that we were in Delos we were in a place that was occupied from as far back as 1400 BC, but whose heyday occurred primarily between 500 and 200 BC.
Delos is a special place amongst all the ancient sites of Greece. The island held important religious, political and cultural value to the ancient Greeks, far beyond what you might suppose possible for a small island that had no natural water sources beyond rainfall.
Delos was the ceremonial birthplace of the twins Artemis and Apollo. It was also considered the center spoke in the Cyclades Islands, since it was located in the middle of the other islands on the map.
Our guide was incredibly knowledgeable and walked us through the site explaining the history of Delos along the way. We were first led to the ruins of homes that were once owned by wealthy residents around 200 BC. The mosaics above depict a tiger and a dolphin with a trident.
Next we saw the cisterns that supplied water to the residents. To this day they still collect rainwater.
As we continued we arrived at the theater. Only the front row seats remained intact but it was fun to sit together in the place where the ancient Greeks once came to enjoy a performance or discuss civic life. The theater was the center of Greek society.
While the theater was the center of Greek social life, the religious and cultural center of Delos was closer to the port. Here, massive temples were built to honor Apollo. The temples are largely gone now, but some restoration work is continuing to save and reconstruct what remains at at the site.
Numerous cats also make Delos their home. They were eager to make friends, but we wisely avoided touching them if we could. We don’t need to risk getting bitten by an unvaccinated cat.
Finally we arrived at the Colonnade of the Lions before being given about 15 minutes to explore the site on our own. Daniel and I made a quick trek to toward the central peak to get a closer look at some distant temples.
We really enjoyed the trip to Delos and especially the narration from the tour guide. Again, I really don’t think a visit to Delos without a guide is a good idea unless you really have a good map and a solid understanding of the site.
Rather than taking the ferry back to the New Port and the ship, we opted to stay in the Old Town area to enjoy lunch and see historic Mykonos. Certainly we were in no hurry and we could take a bus on the opposite side of the port back to the ship.
Old Town Mykonos was a very attractive place with winding corridors of white-washed buildings and windmills set up on the surrounding hills. We wandered a bit until we found a place to grab a Greek lunch, then did some souvenir shopping.
We enjoyed our morning in Delos and found Mykonos to be a pretty island. I have to admit though that the souvenirs for sale were not always the most family-friendly. We were constantly advising our 11-year-old not to comment on something he saw for sale or on display.
Mykonos was the last port stop on our cruise. The following day would take us to Athens for two days in the great capital of Classical and modern Greece.
After a great day visiting Olympia our next stop was the small island of Santorini, one of the Cyclades Islands of Greece.
In the preceding year when Shelley and I researched things to do on a cruise stop for Santorini, we were often left without a clear answer. There were a couple small museums, some small wineries, and further away the site of Ancient Akrotiri and the town of Oia. There were also a couple very small beaches.
The cruise ship offered some horribly overpriced excursions, but we were also looking at the overall budget for the trip and were picky about what we spent our money on. For the most part we had either decided to make our own day like we had in Cannes and Rome, or used a transportation only tour to visit places like Lucca, Taormina, and Olympia.
But when it came to Santorini, knowing we had two kids with us, none of the attractions seemed to warrant the effort and expense to go out of our way. The most intriguing and popular activity to me as a hiker, was the Fira to Oia trail, which followed the cliffside around half of the island (6.5 miles one way).
We watched a video together of the hike and Shelley admitted it didn’t look very exciting to her. A lot of the trail follows passageways in crowded tourist areas of Fira before it finally opens up to a very dry, cliffside trail the rest of the way to Oia. The videos also made it clear that it was usually very hot, and just getting to Fira from the tender port meant ascending a switchbacking trail right up the cliffside.
So when we arrived in what was once the island of Thera before a massive eruption destroyed most of the island, I was not surprised when Shelley told me that partly due to her arms, she was going to take a day to rest on the ship.
But not only was Shelley in need of a rest day, 17-year-old Daniel also had a sore throat and wanted to rest. Typically, he’s been excited to do a hike, but he was simply feeling under the weather and wanted to relax.
And finally 11-year old Evan, who I would have happily brought with me onto Santorini had he been interested, wanted to take a day to chill out on the ship. Which left me alone going to Santorini. If I chose to go.
I debated staying on the ship too. It was going to be another day of 100F+ degree weather making the full hike to Oia in direct sun somewhat of a no-go. But I did know what I was getting into if I at least started out on the hike, and it wouldn’t hurt to try for a less distant objective like Skaros Rock…
Well, I could decide when I got there. But whatever I did I would go it alone.
When the ship arrived in the caldera of Santorini the sight of the island with the whitewashed buildings and surrounding volcanic islands was rather fascinating. Most of the ship gathered on the decks to watch the ship make its way to anchorage.
So, using the priority access we had to board the early ship tenders (they were backed up all day and when I returned from the island many people were still waiting to depart), I departed the ship with my backpack and water bottles for a day of hiking.
On arrival at the Old Port which sits at the halfway point on the coast of the half moon of the island I realized I would benefit from a hat before starting on the journey. As a rule I usually don’t buy food or souvenirs right at the point where cruise ships unload tourists since the prices are usually terribly overpriced, but I did find a fairly nice Greek fedora for 10 Euros.
With that done is was time to start the steep ascent up the donkey trail to Fira.
The ascent up to Fira was a long section of switchbacks straight up the cliff to Fira above. It’s the equivalent of 800 steps (or so I’m told). It kind of reminded me of hiking up to the rim of the Grand Canyon because of the heat and exposure.
You can take the gondolas as an alternative and I would recommend this for anyone with mobility issues. The donkeys are both a blessing and a curse on the trail. They are fun to see but they do leave stinky manure on the pavement. Also the surface gets hot and a little slippery. I saw one guy fall, and with all the manure remnants it’s not a good place to lose your footing.
Once I arrived in Fira I was met by a throng of cruise port travelers all packed into the narrow alleyways of Fira. It was a little discomfiting, to be honest, but by walking a little ways further I was able to get some much needed breathing space.
At first I admit that I found the hike to be a bit frustrating. The sun’s heat radiating off the white walls around me and the crowds of people made for a very uncomfortable experience. Fortunately, I think the heat had pushed a lot of people back indoors because the further i walked from Fira the quieter and more relaxed it became.
There was still quite a climb even after reaching Fira to reach the high point of the trail at Imerovigli just before the Skaros Rock spur Trail. Finally, at Imerovigli I was able to enjoy some of the unique and historical architecture of Santorini: the old churches with blue domes, the windmills, and the striking views back over the town and over the ocean where far below the cruise ship sat in the blue ocean of the caldera.
I didn’t come to see souvenir shops and cranky cruise ship passengers. I came to see a Greek island. Now I found it. Even if I was sweating like crazy and needed a cold drink.
To get to Skaros Rock you need to take a spur trail of about a half mile down from the Fira to Oia trail. Since I had decided the Oia hike would take too long and I lacked the water and resolve to complete the journey to Oia, Skaros Rock was a perfect option.
The descent down to Skaros Rock was my favorite part of the trail. You have views in every direction to the surrounding seas and islands and back up to Imerovigli, the town that sits above it and has the blue-domed churches I mentioned earlier.
Skaros Rock itself appears to just be a promontory jutting out to the sea from the caldera rim. But there was a Venetian fortress built on the site that no longer exists (or at least I could find no indication of it even after hiking to the opposite side). Signs also indicate that earlier archaeological artifacts were found dedicated to Athena from the Classical era.
After my brief foray at the rock I started back, first stopping for a cool drink then a Greek pita lunch. The heat by now had really driven people indoors because the areas that were previously packed with tourists were calm and largely empty.
With my lunch eaten, it was time for a souvenir shot glass in the more peaceful souvenir shops. With one in hand I returned to Fira, and then hiked back down the donkey trail.
One thing we had heard prior to coming to Santorini was that the sunsets were something to behold, particularly from Oia. The trouble was that Oia was reputed to be very crowded every evening at sunset, and whatever majestic value was to be found was lost while standing in a packed crowd.
So before departure we made reservations for a restaurant on the NCL Getaway called Cagney’s Steakhouse. The nice thing about Cagney’s is that it has outdoor seating and the ship is aways oriented while at anchor at Santorini with the restaurant facing to the west. Toward the sunset.
So we had our romantic dinner (the only really great meal we had on the ship) watching the sunset. We’ve seen some very beautiful sunsets in our lives and I’m not sure where Santorini ranks. It was certainly charming. But it was the ambience of the moment that made it particularly great.
The following day would take us to Mykonos and an journey to the ancient city of Delos.
Originally NCL had designated Corfu as the first stop in Greece. The stop was supposed to be a total of six hours, which really meant around 4 hours of actual time to visit the island. With such a short amount of time available, we were effectively limited to taking the ship’s excursion to a beach on the north side of the island (which was sure to be horrendously crowded by cruise goers).
Also, I know Corfu is a scenic and historic island, but the stop just wasn’t that interesting to me in comparison to much of the rest of Greece. There was simply nothing “bucket list” worthy for me among the sites available within a four hour window. If the original itinerary offered more time, we could have taken a boat to some of the beaches on nearby islands, which are often the most photographed in Greece.
So when NCL announced a month before departure that the port had been changed to Olympia, I was really quite excited. We would also now be in port from 11:00 AM to 7:00 PM, giving us eight hours of time to explore. A port stop that felt like a throw-away day now featured something much more interesting: Ancient Olympia.
Also, I really felt like seeing the Peloponnese was important to really getting to see Greece. It’s a separate region historically and culturally from Attica (where Athens is located) and the islands. Visiting the Peloponnese (even for five hours) was better than not visiting.
Soon after the announced change I looked online and found a Viator private tour in a car for a maximum of four people. That was perfect. We could get away from the crowds and be by ourselves and go where ever we wanted for five hours. I booked it and looked forward to arriving.
But now there was one problem, as I mentioned in the prior post. Shelley had fallen in Sicily and hurt her arms. Her right arm was in a sling and her left arm felt only marginally better. The x-rays taken the prior day revealed no bone fractures, but the medical staff on the ship suggested that she could get a CT scan at a medical clinic once we arrived in Katakolon to check for soft tissue damage.
As it turned out in the intervening hours, the medical staff wasn’t able to make contact with a clinic in Katakolon to have a CT scan performed. So there would be no trip to a medical clinic after all. And since we were taking a private car for the day, it would be much easier for her to take the excursion with us than otherwise. So we would be visiting Olympia together as a family. The way it should be.
Also, with her arm immobilized and the vacation only continuing for four more days, we had started to conclude that waiting to return home for an examination would be a better option. The x-rays showed no breaks and she could see an orthopedist once we returned home. Until then she would just be reliant on pain medication and our help to assist her as needed.
The next day we told the medical staff we would decline further medical care until we returned home.
Our ship arrived at 11:00 AM in Katakolon and we quickly exited the ship to find our driver for the day. We found her rather quickly holding a sign with my name, and the four of us climbed into the seats of the nice, air-conditioned car while the rest of the cruise tours waited to board buses.
We started off toward Olympia and the driver told about the local area. The region between Katakolon and Olympia is an agricultural region and the orchards and vineyards made it feel similar to California’s Central Coast. I always enjoy traveling into rural areas and seeing how life is enjoyed away from the cities. it was a pleasant drive.
As we neared Olympia she suggested that we go first to a Honey Farm since we mentioned that being one of the places we would like to visit in the area. The archaeological site, she said, would be particularly busy and if we waited many of the tours would depart before we arrived.
I’m not sure why we don’t have any more photos than my single one of a fig tree, but Klio’s Honey Farm was a quiet respite from all of the craziness over the last week. The honey farm is a genuine farm alongside a stream where honey is produced as well as other products like lotions.
We enjoyed sitting and drinking fruit juice while learning about the evolution of beekeeping in Greece over the centuries. We did not get to see the bees themselves, but we did get to see the equipment and they told us to look for an ancient bee-keeping smoker in the archaeological museum (we did find it).
We bought some honey and it is very good stuff.
The Olympia Archaeological Museum is nearby the Archaeological site. We first went to the museum which was air conditioned on a very hot (104 F) day to see the incredible display of artifacts from the Olympia site.
I was fascinated by the helmets and other artifacts to be found in the museum. The ancient Olympic games dated back to 700 BC, but the site itself has artifacts dating back to the Mycenaean Period going back to approximately 1000 BC.
There were two helmets that were particularly interesting to me situated next to each other in a display. One was the helmet of Militiades, the general that led the Athenians to victory over the Persians at Marathon. The other was a Parthian helmet (modern day Iran) that was captured by the Greeks and kept it as an offering to Zeus at Olympia.
You can see the helmet in the video, which also includes the archaeological site.
Now for what we were most excited to see. The site of Ancient Olympia. Where the ancient games were held from 700 BC until around 300 AD.
The heat was stifling. It was 104 F and it was humid. But there is no way that was going to stop us from enjoying Olympia.
We started at at the gymnasium and worked our way through the site, stopping by the Philippeion (the partially circular structure), The Temple of Hera, the Treasuries, the Stadium, and the Temple of Zeus, before deciding it was time for a cold drink.
The Philippeion was ordered constructed by the father of Alexander the Great, Phillip II of Macedon. Phillip II successfully conquered and united all of Greece before his son went on to create a huge empire stretching into Egypt, Persia, and into India.
The Temple of Hera is the oldest structure at the site. It is at the Temple of Hera that the Olympic flame is lit every Olympiad (and 2024 is an Olympic year!).
Next we were very excited to enter the stadium under the arch and to do as the ancients did thousands of years ago. Daniel and I didn’t care how hot it was and neither did the dozens of others who ran the length of the ancient stadium. It’s a once in a lifetime opportunity.
Afterward, we wound our way back to a onsite shop selling cool drinks. And boy did we need one! Then we made a quick visit to the gift shop (and the air conditioning), before deciding it was time for an authentic Greek lunch. We were all smiling brightly, as you can see.
We asked the driver where we could get gyros in Olympia and she took us to this restaurant. The food was good but the restaurant was a tad pricey. Still it was nice to sit outside and enjoy the day and the wandering cats while we ate.
Afterward we did some shopping and found the first of the Pythagoras Cups that were a priority of ours to find in Greece. And we got some shirts and a shot glass.
We were tired and hot but it was a fun and enjoyable day. I highly recommend taking a private tour if you can. It made it more relaxing and we never felt rushed. The driver was nice and taught us some Greek words and how to pronounce various letters. We had a few more days in Greece so we needed all the help we could get.
Now it was onward to Santorini.
Ευχαριστώ! Ef horisto (thank you very much)!
I mentioned in the last post that by the time we finished the Naples stop we were feeling pretty good. Though we felt rushed at times having to return to the ship each day, we had been able to see and do quite a lot thus far and all of our pre-trip planning was working out well.
The next stop on the cruise ship itinerary was Messina, Sicily. I had never been to the island of Sicily and for a long time the island was kind of off the radar due to the association with the mafia. In recent decades the island has become one of the most intriguing places to visit in Italy with its beaches and history some of the most beautiful in the country.
Originally the Messina stop was supposed to be short, only 7 hours, which for a cruise passenger is effectively 5 hours due to the time necessary to debark and reboard the ship. However, about a month before departure NCL notified us that they were extending the Messina stop by 2 hours, which gave us more latitude to enjoy ourselves in Siciliy.
We had decided beforehand to travel down the coast to Taormina, a resort town on the coast about an hour away. Initially I expected that visiting Taormina would use up all of the time that we had in port, but with the additional two hours I now expected to be able to walk around Messina a bit before boarding the ship.
To get to Taormina we booked the only cruise excursion we planned for on the trip: ‘Taormina On Your Own’. This turned out to be a blessing and a curse as you will find out later. Effectively the excursion was simply bus transportation, which had the advantage of taking us right to the city and not to the train station below the city (at least 45 minutes walk up a cliff or a taxi ride). This in theory would give us more time.
Shelley also had wanted to take family portraits at a stop on the trip. For once this was a day where I didn’t have anything in particular that I wanted to see (other than the Greek Theater in Taormina). This was probably the last time we would vacation as a family since our eldest was a high school graduate and intended to move away to start his life, and this was our 20th anniversary trip.
We booked a photographer through Flytographer in advance and scheduled the meetup to occur in Taormina at a time when we would be there after taking the bus ride for the excursion. We bought matching clothing that would be suitable for both the portraits and the hot, Mediterranean weather, and contacted the photographer to let him know we were on our way.
As the bus left Messina I saw that the city was more attractive and interesting than I first assumed. There were entire blocks devoted to parks and attractive historic buildings in the city center. The tour guide on the bus pointed out some civic buildings as having been built during the Mussolini era that were unpopular with the locals, but were historic reminders of World War II. Had we more time that day I would have liked to look for more connections to WWII in the city.
But certainly, once we got back from the excursion we would have time to explore the city near the port. Or so I thought.
We arrived in a parking garage and after ascending the stairs to the top level I did not see much that was particularly interesting. It wasn’t until we passed through the city gate that I realized just how beautiful Taormina really is.
These few pictures really don’t do justice for Taormina. We just didn’t have much time to explore the city on our own and to take photographs. But I will tell you unequivocally it was the prettiest city we visited on the entire trip.
And we did choose the right city for family portraits.
We entered the city gates and walked the narrow streets, quickly following Google Maps to find the Public Gardens. It was there that we had arranged to meet the photographer. We entered the gardens, found a bench to sit on, trying not to be sweaty, and messaged the photographer. We mentioned being near a statue and he found us quickly thereafter.
I have always had a personal policy of not posting photos on my blog that are not my own. The following photos were taken by Guiseppe who you can book under ‘Guiseppe and Guiseppe’ (we didn’t see the other Guiseppe) on Flytographer for Taormina, Italy.
The photo locations were terrific throughout the town and we were very happy with the results. The only problem was that my wife had to do the entire session in a lot of pain.
Just after we started the portrait session Shelley tripped on uneven pavement in the Public Garden and fell very hard on her arms. We were instantly concerned that she had broken bones and certainly severe sprains in her wrists and elbows. By catching herself with her arms on a hard surface she saved herself from further injury but was in immense pain throughout the rest of the day (and trip).
She refused to stop the portrait session and after all we had done and gone through to get there, we were not about to quit. She put on a strong, smiling face for the next hour and a half and we walked from one location to another to continuing posing for photos.
Once we were done with the portraits, we were near the city gate. We stopped for some much needed gelato (it’s always needed) and Shelley wisely ordered granita, since it comes from Sicily (or so I’m told). Despite the pain she was in we would have explored the city a bit longer and gone to the Greek Theater, but the tour guide gave us only enough time to finish the portrait session and eat a little before we needed to return to the bus.
Once we were back on the bus the adrenaline wore off and Shelley said the pain and stiffness were becoming more severe. We needed to find a doctor and get x-rays done. Being in a foreign country this would be more difficult. But the ship did have a clinic on our floor with an x-ray machine, so we could go there.
To a certain extent we’ve always had good fortune over the years and have never been in a situation where we needed medical care on any trips (that I can recall anyway). We have had to stop at pharmacies and shopping centers for pain medicine, band-aids, cough medicine, etc.
Now we had a situation that would require seeking medical care in a foreign country. So I needed to check on the coverage provided by our insurance from GeoBlue.
In the past whenever we have traveled outside the country I have gotten some form of Travel Insurance. Usually I do a cost-benefit analysis to decide how much and from whom.
Most travel insurance covers both medical and trip cancellation or disruption. While trip cancellation or disruption can be costly it pales in comparison to the costs of receiving medical care for serious injuries or illness while abroad.
GeoBlue is ONLY travel medical insurance. You can buy reasonably priced plans for an entire family that cover up to $1 million in expenses. It is run by Blue Cross and it is generally considered one of the best travel medical insurances you can get. It also is more streamlined for getting reimbursement and finding providers since it’s not an umbrella travel policy but is focused on just the medical insurance aspect.
I have two Chase credit cards that provide some travel insurance to cover the other possibilities including disruption and cancellation, along with lost luggage. I also often pay extra for plane tickets and cruise fare so I can cancel up to the day of departure and still at least get credits for future travel. Also I almost never prepay for a lower rate on hotels just so that I can pay when I arrive and cancel up to the date of departure.
So basically, my primary concern is the medical aspect and GeoBlue provides great coverage for that purpose.
Still, I needed to call GeoBlue and make sure there were no catches before we used the medical clinic on the ship. We were still docked in Messina a couple hours and if we needed to use a medical facility in Italy we could. Though it was a bit risky now since the ship would depart without us if we were late.
I called GeoBlue and fortunately we could use the medical clinic on the ship and we would be covered. If we were docked in a home port in our home country we would have to exit the ship and seek care in the port with our non-travel insurance. But away from home it was by far the best option and we were covered.
Shelley was in a lot of pain and we were lucky to have the medical facility literally just around the corner from our room. We called the emergency line (the clinic isn’t always open for non-emergencies and they let us in).
Both arms were affected and x-rays were done from the hands to the shoulders. Fortunately, no broken bones were visible on the x-rays, which was at least a partial relief. What the x-rays could not show was soft-tissue damage, and only a CAT scan would reveal these injuries.
Still, at least for now the trip could and would continue on. Our next stop was Katakolon, Greece, the port for Olympia. The medical clinic would attempt to get Shelley into a clinic there to receive the CT scan and further treatment as needed.
Because we were on a cruise-sponsored excursion and no alcohol was involved (they gave her a breathalyzer test), we were not charged for the x-rays and medical care. So in the end we were covered, but it was complimentary. Also, NCL suddenly became a lot more accommodating and helpful to her (and us by extension). We were able to order free room service meals the rest of the trip.
Onward we proceeded toward Greece. It was the country I most looked forward to visiting on the trip. I had never been to Greece and since I am a history buff there are very few places that an match the archaeological sites to be found in Greece (probably only Egypt surpasses it in my mind).
But Shelley would now be wearing a sling and would have to limit her activity considerably. The trip was becoming a gauntlet of challenges to overcome, but we were taking it in stride as much as we could.
Olympia awaited the following day.
