I’ve wanted to travel to Montana for a while, and Glacier in particular. As a family we’d only just barely visited Glacier a few times on trips to Yellowstone (West Glacier, Cooke City, and a Paradise Valley horseback ride). As for Glacier it was a place I last visited 30 years ago (yes, 1993) when I was a teenager and only once before when I was 4 years old.

So while I had been to Glacier and Montana it was so long ago that for the most part our trip this year felt like the first time. And even when I was a teenager we didn’t do any extensive hiking so I was looking forward to getting back and hitting the trails in earnest.

And not only Glacier, but the rest of Montana beckoned. From Little Bighorn Battlefield to Bozeman there was just A LOT that I was eager to see. And to be honest, even after getting home there’s still a lot more I want to go back and see and do: more hikes, more rafting to enjoy, boating to try out, historic sites to visit, wildlife to appreciate, museums to peruse.

So here is the trip we took this July of 2023 into Montana, and briefly across the Canadian border to Waterton Lakes National Park.

1. Day 1: Sheridan, WY to Shelby, MT
   1. Little Bighorn Battlefield
   2. Pompey’s Pillar National Monument
   3. Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center
   4. Giant Springs State Park
2. Day 2: Shelby, MT to Many Glacier
   1. Waterton Lakes National Park
      1. Red Rock Canyon
      2. Prince of Wales Hotel
      3. Waterton Town
   2. Glacier National Park
      1. Many Glacier
      2. Fishercap Lake
3. Day 3: Many Glacier
   1. Grinnell Glacier Trail
   2. Red Rock Falls
4. Day 4: Many Glacier, St. Mary Lake, and Logan Pass
   1. Iceberg Lake
   2. St. Mary Lake Boat Tour
   3. Logan Pass and Hidden Lake Overlook
5. Day 5: Many Glacier to Columbia Falls, MT
   1. Horseback Ride at Many Glacier
   2. Going to the Sun Road
   3. Avalanche Creek
   4. Glamping
6. Day 6: West Glacier and Kalispell
   1. Rafting on the North Fork of the Flathead River
7. Day 7: Flathead Lake, Bozeman, and Billings
   1. Flathead Lake
   2. Museum of the Rockies
8. Day 8: Billings to Home
   1. Pictograph Cave State Park
   2. National Trails Interpretive Center

Day 1: Sheridan, WY to Shelby, MT

Our actual first day would have been the drive from our home in Colorado to a hotel in Sheridan, WY, but since this was exclusively a driving day without any stops I’ll save a discussion of Wyoming for the drive home.

We stayed at the Fairmont Inn in Sheridan and I can say it was a very nice hotel, probably one of the best in the city of Sheridan. The breakfast was good too (actual hot breakfast instead of cold pastries). We didn’t have much time to spend in Sheridan but I do plan to be back on my next foray into Wyoming.

We left in the morning and drove north on I-90 planning to stop at the Little Bighorn Battlefield. While this probably wasn’t a hugely significant stop for my kids, it was a place I had always wanted to visit and checked a box off my bucket list.

Little Bighorn Battlefield

Most people already know the story of Crazy Horse and Custer and the Sioux and Cheyenne and the 7th Cavalry. The site is sobering as it is a rather beautiful prairie landscape marked by grave markers and monuments to commemorate those that fought and died there in 1876.

We spent some time in the visitor center and listened to a ranger discuss the various locations at the monument. As the ranger explained, the national cemetery is not related to the battlefield. He explained that the Last Stand Hill is the first stop to visit and various trails lead from there to places fighting occurred. You can drive onward down the Battlefield Tour Road but we only had time for the hilltop and a short jaunt down the Ravine Trail.

We found the markers for Custer and other members of the 7th Cavalry and we found the monument to the Sioux and Cheyenne to be a fitting tribute. Nobody really won at Little Bighorn despite the defeat of the 7th Cavalry.

We started down the Ravine Trail and were warned by a ranger right away about a rattlesnake. My teenage son and I decided to go on while my wife and youngest son returned to the visitor center to wait for us. After a short walk we found the rattlesnake and I did get a photo of it in the grass off the trail. We walked a bit further and photographed more markers but felt we would be wise to head back and not risk getting blocked by a rattlesnake on the trail back.

We retured to the truck to continue our roadtrip north. I had debated heading straight to Billings for lunch and continuing onward to Great Falls. But then I decided to ad-lib a stop in between. Since it was only 10AM I felt we had time for Pompey’s Pillar.

Pompey’s Pillar National Monument

The Pompey’s Pillar stop was kind of a controversial decision amongst my family because it impacted the time we had for our next stop. But personally I enjoyed the monument and found it to be very worthwhile.

Pompey’s Pillar is a sandstone bluff that rises along the shoreline of the Yellowstone River outside Billings, Montana. It was climbed by William Clark we he explored the river after departing Lewis on a subsequent journey and his inscription remains on the bluff (the only physical proof left of the expedition).

We climbed the stairway to the top of the bluff and took in the view, reading Clark’s remarks on it from a sign at the top. We also walked through the small museum and along the riverside trail.

We probably should have sped up our visit a bit more (it lagged, especially in the gift shop). But we had a long drive to make to another Lewis and Clark spot and I underestimated the slowness of that drive to Great Falls on two lane highways with construction zones added in.

Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center

This is a really good museum outside Great Falls, Montana and you really need a minimum of two hours to take it all in. The museum is full of interactive exhibits that really engage both kids and adults and it tells the whole story of the expedition from beginning to end.

As it was we arrived at about 4:30 PM and the museum closed at 5:00 PM. Not to be deterred we entered anyway and sped through the exhibits as best as we could. Frustration was rightfully voiced to me about not getting more time there and questioning the stop at Pompey’s Pillar. Had our drive gone more smoothly (including not missing a turn to the museum in Great Falls) we probably would have been able to add a full hour and that would have worked out much better.

We still did get the see a lot in that blitz through the museum and I made sure to take enough photos to be able to read through some of the exhibit information. But we will have to get back and visit again, taking the needed time to really enjoy it.

Giant Springs State Park

Giant Springs State Park includes the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center in its boundaries so there is no reason to not see both. The only difference is the Giant Springs stay open until sunset so we had much more time to spend at the springs.

Lewis and Clark actually discovered the springs on their journey when they arrived at the Great Falls of the Missouri River, which are now largely dammed to provide hydroelectric power for Great Falls and beyond. Lewis and Clark had to portage past the falls overland and in doing so encountered the springs.

The Giant Springs are incredibly clear and I put my GoPro in the springs so you can watch the video and see how they appear from the sub-surface. They also create a very short river that runs directly into the Missouri. The visitor center was closed but there was a robin’s nest on the light fixture which we cautiously watched as the mother fed its chicks.

After enjoying the springs we headed off to dinner in Great Falls at the Mackenzie River Pizza. We ate at two Mackenzie locations on the trip and enjoyed it both times. I only wish they could open one in Colorado.

Finally we completed the day’s long drive in Shelby, Montana. I chose to stop in Shelby because it would position us near enough to Glacier and Waterton parks for the following day at a location that had a reasonably well-rated Best Western hotel.

Day 2: Shelby, MT to Many Glacier

On Day 2 we were leaving Big Sky country behind to travel to the mountains. As everyone knows, the Canadian wildfires have affected air quality across both countries throughout much of the summer of 2023. For the most part Montana and the Rocky Mountain states have been mostly only minimally affected, but we noticed a haze to the air in Shelby which was the result of the fires.

Fortunately the winds that had shifted and brought the smoke from the north were shifting back to the southwest that day, pushing the smoky air away from Waterton and Glacier.

Our agenda that day led us to drive west toward Browning then north into Waterton Lakes National Park via the Chief Mountain port of entry. I remembered our passports and so we were able to make this trek across the border. The site of crystal blue skies and mountain vistas was instantly elating as I was genuinely worried we would face a smoke-filled week in Waterton-Glacier National Parks.

Once past the border crossing we made our way down to the park entrance which sits in a valley surrounded by lofty peaks. The haze was definitely noticeable but it wasn’t going to affect our day.

Waterton Lakes National Park

We took the turn to go first to Red Rock Canyon which travels along a narrow road up a river valley. The forest here was unfortunately largely lost to the huge fires that affected Wateron Lakes in 2017. A huge percentage of the park’s forest were burned in the fires that year and, much like the Yellowstone fires of 1988, the forest will return but it will take decades to regenerate the losses.

When we arrived at the parking area I noticed that the vast majority of the license plates were from Alberta with only a very few plates from the USA. I think that cross-border traffic has dropped considerably owing to to the passport requirement (in past decades it was as easy as showing a drivers license), the devastating fires and their effect on the scenery, and there being just generally less to see and do in Waterton as opposed to Glacier.

But personally I think Waterton is still a very worthwhile excursion and there are some really great hikes and still intact forests in Waterton Lakes. Had I the time and if my family was all old enough, the Crypt Lake trail is reputed to be among the best in North America. And the Prince of Wales Hotel and Waterton town are great stops in their own right (but more on those later).

Red Rock Canyon

We took the loop trail around Red Rock Canyon and then I walked up the waterway with my sons in our water shoes. The water was cold but it felt good as the temperatures were going to be in the 90s the rest of our time in Alberta and Montana. I used my waterproof digital camera while walking in the water but I’m also realizing it’s photo quality just isn’t up to par since I only used one photo from the few I took in the canyon.

After finishing up on our brief trek in Red Rock Canyon we proceeded to the Prince of Wales Hotel and my family really got to appreciate both the beauty of Waterton Lakes and this cool, historic hotel.

Prince of Wales Hotel

By now the skies were really clearing and the view over Upper Waterton Lake from behind the hotel was incredible. It was also pretty hot and the site of the water and people paddling in it below looked very inviting.

We stopped by the gift shop and got a much-needed coffee and bought some much-desired souvenirs, then enjoyed a trip up the historic elevator in the lobby. It’s from the 1920s and requires an attendant to operate it, but they were happy to give my son and I a trip up to the second floor.

Waterton Town

Since it was now lunch time we traveled down to Waterton town to find some lunch. We made our way to Trapper’s Mountain Grill. The food was average and a bit pricey but the beer was really refreshing.

Afterward we walked to the lakeshore to enjoy the scenery. It’s a great spot to see the Prince of Wales Hotel on the hilltop above and a deer casually strolled over to us on the walk back to the car.

Ready now to travel south to Many Glacier we passed back through the border crossing and we were lucky enough to unwittingly be witnesses to a special wildlife encounter.

Glacier National Park

I had not heard the bison could be found in Glacier, unlike Yellowstone. As we were traveling south on the Chief Mountain road a bison cow and calf crossed the road in front of us and disappeared into the forest. I was lucky enough to get a quick photo with my phone.

I didn’t know what to make of these bison at the time. Were there wild bison in Alberta that crossed the border or did they escape from a private ranch? Were they owned by the Blackfeet as a private herd?

The answer came when we were on a boat tour later on in the trip. In early July 2023 the Blackfeet released 20 or so genetically pure bison back into Glacier National Park in the Chief Mountain area to repopulate the species which had gone extinct due to hunting in the late 1800s. These were two of those bison that are the first wild herd of bison in Glacier since that time!

When we were told about the newly reintroduced bison we showed the tour guide and told the same story to another guide on our rafting trip. hopefully these bison thrive and their numbers grow over the coming years.

Many Glacier

The road into the Many Glacier area is one of those iconically beautiful national park driving experiences. The view of Lake Sherburne, the surrounding mountains, and later Swiftcurrent Lake and the Many Glacier Hotel is something to enjoy. Yes, the gravel road is a bit rough until you get to the entrance gates, but that only adds. tothe feeling that you are leaving civilization behind to step back in timeand enjoy genuine wilderness at its finest.

When successfully I made the lodging reservations at 2AM on July 1, 2022 for Swiftcurrent lodge in a 2 double-bed room it was only after all the available rooms in the Many Glacier Hotel had sold out and I had spent two frustrating hours watching the Xanterra server time out. However, I will tell you now that if you enjoy hiking, the Swiftcurrent Motor Lodge is better. And we had one of the best rooms in the entire park to enjoy the Many Glacier area.

When we arrived the lodge area was pretty busy with cars parked in every available spot along the roadside for access to the trails, but the crowds dispersed quickly thereafter. And the Swiftcurrent Motor Lodge’s rooms are actually tucked away from most of the crowds in a peaceful area. The rooms are small and simple, without A/C, but they are clean and comfortable and you can’t get closer to the trails.

To get to the Iceberg Lake Trail I walked out the door and about 100 feet to the right. To go to the Swiftcurrent Pass trail (that passes Fishercap Lake, etc) we walk 50 paces to the left. To get to the Grinnel Glacier/Swiftcurrent Lake trail we walked about 1/2 mile back toward Many Glacier hotel and never had to move the truck.

Also, the crowd at Swiftcurrent is 100% hiker. I felt completely at home among my people. I truthfully never saw a more athletic and healthy group of people all in one place (it was a world away from the cruise we went on in March out of Florida). And Nell’s turned out to be a really good and reasonably priced restaurant and we ate there about 5 times.

It was noticeably more stodgy and expensive at the Many Glacier Hotel and nowhere else we were felt as relaxed and cool. When I go back it will be to the Swiftcurrent.

Fishercap Lake

One of the nice things about our access to the trails was that we were able to take a quick jaunt from our room down the Swithcurrent Pass trail to Fishercap Lake. While the lake itself is beautiful it’s the near-constant presence of at least one moose feeding in the lake that makes it a fun stop to visit.

We walked the short half-mile to the lake our first night in Many Glacier and a few times after that to watch the moose feed in the lake.

Day 3: Many Glacier

Grinnell Glacier Trail

If there was one hike I was determined to do more than any other it was the Grinnel Glacier hike. Initially I planned for all four of us to go together but that morning my wife and 10-year-old son decided they would do the more casual stroll around Swiftcurrent lake and allow my 16-year-old son and I to tackle the more difficult hike together.

The hike is about 11 miles roundtrip from the Swiftcurrent Lake trailhead and 12 miles from the motor lodge. It’s one of the most scenic hikes mile-for-mile that I’ve ever done and we saw more moose along the shore of Lake Josephine. We did start down a side trail that neared the glacier but stopped short along the shoreline of Upper Grinnell Lake.

Coming back it was definately hot and the trail was a bit more crowded. I highly recommend going up early if you can. The temps were in the 90s and we were quite warm by the time we finished out the hike.

We were back at the room at about noon and we all went to lunch together at Nell’s. Shelley and Evan hiked the Swiftcurrent trail and then stopped at Nell’s for breakfast. We also ate at Nell’s for dinner.

They have Huckleberry beer and the Huckleberry cheesecake is great. You can never have too much huckleberry anything.

Red Rock Falls

We all spent a couple hours resting up and decided to do a full family hike to Red Rock Falls along the Swiftcurrent Pass trail, then have dinner. We would make a stop at Fishercap lake to see if there was a moose (there was), then continue on to Red Rock Lake and the falls.

While the scenery was great I have to tell you that this trail in the late afternoon is plagued by flies. We sprayed ourselves with mosquito repellant but the flies still flocked to us like crazy. It was a bit hard to convince my 10-year-old to continue on and bear the annoying insects, but he did get to Red Rock Lake where you could look across and see the falls.

After that we sped back to the hotel room at a quicker pace. And yeah we went back to Nell’s for dinner. The BBQ mac and cheese is really good and filling.

Day 4: Many Glacier, St. Mary Lake, and Logan Pass

This was a pretty busy day that I had planned out to try to get as much in without exhausting the family. My family wanted to rest sore legs in the morning from the prior day and while I had a sore back I wasn’t going to not do the Iceberg Lake hike. Heck, I don’t even need to move the truck.

Iceberg Lake

I woke at about 5:30 and gathered up the bear spray, the water, ate a couple protein bars, and put on some sunscreen. It was time to see a grizzly. Maybe. Or at least a really cool lake.

The rangers will tell you that of the day hikes in Glacier, the one that has the most grizzly activity is usually Iceberg Lake. On the way up you pass through an area filled with huckleberries and serviceberries, a favorite food of theirs. Knowing that, and seeing the ‘Bear Frequenting’ poster I was pretty hopeful to get a really cool grizzly photo to eagerly show my family when I returned.

I did not see a grizzly although hikers before and after me said they saw one on both sides of the trail near the trailhead. The hike was very scenic though and a moose walked up to near the shoreline while I was there.

The hike was 10 miles roundtrip and I had now logged about 26 miles in about 24 hours. My feet were fortunately completely fine but I was feeling the effects of carrying a backpack not intended for long hiking trips. I bought a camera case/backpack a year ago and while it is great for protecting the cameras it’s not ideal for protecting your back from aching a lot.

Once back at the room we quickly got into the car and sped over to Many Glacier. I told my family that after the hike we’d go have breakfast at the Ptarmigan Room. Only problem was I was about a half hour late and the Ptarmigan Room was closed. So we sauntered down to Heidi’s Coffee Shop on the bottom floor and had breakfast pizza and coffees. Then we got some souvenirs. Because well, you can’t not get souvenirs.

While we were still a bit early for a 4 PM boat tour on St. Mary Lake we decided to drive there anyway. While we could have driven up the Going to the Sun Road we wisely decided to wait and instead just waited an hour by the windy lakeside, trying to stay cool by wading in the waters and sitting in the shade. We also watched a girl preparing to SUP in St. Mary Lake despite the very windy conditions. We had doubts about her likelihood of success but our boat departed before

St. Mary Lake Boat Tour

I wasn’t sure what to expect from the boat tour but I would say it was very good overall. And I think St. Mary Lake is probably one of the better boat tours.

We were taken to the far western end of the lake and then docked at Baring Falls where we took the family photos above. It also felt really good to stand on the deck and feel the breeze on the lake. Did I mention it was really hot?

Also the tour guide was pretty informative and it was from her that we learned about the bison that were recently released into the park, as well as the fact that many trees just stay in small bunches near the ground (called krummholz) and that some trees will freeze and exlode in the winter. And we learned about the fire that killed many trees by St. Mary Lake.

I guess I might add though that there were some words like ‘colonizer’ that the guide used which we didn’t feel were necessary. The history of the US and the west is complicated. Let’s just say that. Beyond that, it was really good and worth doing.

After the boat ride I had made up my mind that we would be eating at Two Dog Flats at Rising Sun. That was a great decision because we didn’t have to go outside the park, the food was good (huckleberry BBQ pulled pork sandwich with huckleberry beer), it was reasonably priced, and it would be easy to go up to Logan Pass afterward when the parking lot wouldn’t be crowded and (with luck) the wildlife would be more active.

After filling ourselves with huckleberry-related foods and an apple pie for good measure, we drove up to Logan Pass and found parking easily.

Logan Pass and Hidden Lake Overlook

We arrived at Logan Pass at about 7 PM and the visitor center was closed, but there was still plenty of daylight and I cajoled the kids to follow me up the Hidden Lake boardwalk trail in search of mountain Goats, bighorns, and a pretty lake at near sunset. Shelley wasn’t feeling completely well at that point and decided to wait happily at the pass while we went up the trail.

We arrived at the overlook and along the way we saw many Colombian ground squirrels, a ptarmigan, and a very distant bighorn (in the hillside image above on the right side. But I wanted to see more. The heat had driven the animals to higher ground elsewhere.

The overlook was beautiful of course but I felt a little downcast as I returned to the parking lot. But strangely, nature has a way of making no sense whatsoever. There was a bighorn ram right by the bathroom. Licking the ground.

Not the most scenic backdrop, but it’s still a bighorn ram.

We returned to the car rather amused after all, and I was feeling the effects of about 30 miles of hard hiking in less than 48 hours. Shelley was feeling better by now and started down the Going to the Sun Roa.. We got lucky quite quickly as there were more mountain goats but in a much better location amid some trees.

Now these rams were certainly in a more ‘natural’ setting.

We got back to the Swiftcurrent hotel at nearly 10 PM but only just seconds before sunset. Still we were completely worn out (at least I was) and needed a good rest. We had an early day again. tomorrow. And we finally realized there was a window fan in the closet of the room.

Day 5: Many Glacier to Columbia Falls, MT

I had logged 12 (Grinnell Glacier) + 4 (Red Rock Falls) + 10 (Iceberg Lake) + 4 (Hidden Lake) = 30 miles of mountain hiking in 48 hours and I was really getting sore. But there was no time for rest.

I booked a 7:45 horseback ride for my sons and I and we decided to all go to breakfast at the Ptarmigan Room at Many Glacier beforehand.

I’m going to say flat out that unlike the great meals I’ve had at other higher-end national park lodge restaurants (Old Faithful Inn & Roosevelt Lodge in Yellowstone, El Tovar at the Grand Canyon, and the Ahwahnee in Yosemite) the breakfast at the Ptarmigan Room at Many Glacier isn’t nearly worth the price, even with the nice lake view from the table.

Horseback Ride at Many Glacier

After eating my sons and I walked across the parking lot to the stables for the two-hour ride to Cracker Flats.

The trail ride stayed on mostly level loop through the forest and along the shore of Lake Sherburne but it was pretty scenic and enjoyable. My son suffered a sudden nosebleed along the way and the guide stopped to help clean him up. It was my youngest son’s favorite activity despite the nosebleed.

Afterward we went quickly back to the room to pack up and bid farewell to the Swiftcurrent Lodge that we enjoyed for three days to travel to the west side.

We left the park and headed south to renter at the St. Mary entrance to travel to the west side over Going to the Sun Road.

Going to the Sun Road

I’ve driven many of the most scenic drives in the country: Highway 1 in California, The Million Dollar Highway in the San Juans of Colorado, Trail Ridge Road in Rocky Mountain National Park, Highway 1 in the Florida Keys, Highway 441 across the Great Smoky Mountains, the Kancamagus Highway in New Hampshire in fall, the Road To Hana on Maui, the Seward Highway 9 in Alaska, 89A in Arizona between Sedona and Flagstaff, and Highway 12 in Utah between Capitol Reef and Bryce Canyon. I’m only missing one that I hope to do in the next couple years: The Beartooth Highway outside Yellowstone. I’ve certainly driven enough to write a good blog post on scenic drives.

I would rate the Going to the Sun Road as one of the top 2 or 3 in terms of pure scenic splendor and it’s an engineering marvel as well. There is zero reason to go faster than 10 MPH over much of it. There are a bunch of pull-offs and if you can park (many times you can’t find a space) go ahead and do so. I saw people standing in their vehicles through the sunroof and while that might not be perfectly safe it’s the one place it’s understandable.

Also, the sunrise and sunset in the summer in Montana gives many hours of sunlight so you don’t need to drive this road between the core hours when you need a reservation. We had a reservation and personally I think the reservation system is a necessity.

There was one definite stop that I was intent on making as long as we could find parking is the Avalanche Creek/Trail of the Cedars area. This is a short loop trail through a unique temperate rainforest that you would not expect to find in the Rocky Mountains. It also includes one of the most photographed spots in Glacier at Avalanche Creek.

Avalanche Creek

You can also take a side trail to Avalanche Lake and I honestly wish we had no matter how tired I already was. It was left for a future trip (along with a ton of other hikes).

We continued on along the shore of Lake McDonald and passed by the Lake McDonald Lodge and Apgar Village but due to the crowds and lack of parking (and ensuing hunger in my family) we failed to stop to do the boat rental that I had wanted to add to the itinerary.

We finally exited the park and stopped in West Glacier (which was insanely hot and crowded and walked into the first place we saw for food: Freda’s Bar and Grill. I’ve seen this place is highly rated on some travel sites but I found it horrendously overpriced and loud. We paid $17 for each burger with no sides and $16 for an elk sausage. If my family hadn’t been excessively hungry there is no way we would have paid that for lunch.

Glamping

Our room for the night was a glamping tent at the North 40 Resort just west of Columbia Falls. The North 40 Resort is primarily luxury cabins but they added a glamping tent which we enjoyed for two nights as a ‘research’ experience.

My wife and I have discussed opening a glamping resort of our own as an employment/retirement project. We just haven’t decided where to build our resort (it could be Montana.

We enjoyed the glamping tent with its spacious interior, king sized bed and pull-out bed, electricity, refrigerator, interior and exterior tables, A/C and outdoor. deck. Unfortunately it had no sink (you had to walk over to bathroom to even wash your hands and the A/C was overwhelmed by the temperatures.

We drove down to Kalispell to buy some groceries and cooked out two nights to cut down on some of the dining costs. It took a while to light the charcoal but the steaks were great.

Day 6: West Glacier and Kalispell

Being an El Nino year the mountains of Montana and Glacier have received considerably less snow than in normal years, and the temperatures have also been much hotter. The jet stream carries the moisture further south to California, Utah and California.

In La Nina years, and in the interim years, the reverse is generally true. Montana receives a lot of snow and moisture while California and Colorado are hot and dry. Consequently the frequency of fires increases in either region depending on the climatic swings.

Rafting on the North Fork of the Flathead River

I booked the rafting trip on the Middle Fork of the Flathead months ago not realizing that when we finally went the water levels would be like that of a typical September, because of the aforementioned El Nino cycle. Therefore the half day rafting trip was slower and less exciting than I was hoping for. We still had fun though and the dip the Flathead water was refreshing on a day with 95 degree temperatures.

Because I didn’t carry my camera with me on the rafting trip I don’t have any pictures from this activity. We did buy a couple photos from Glacier Rafting Company that they took, but I don’t post photos on this blog that I didn’t take.

Afterward we made another stop at a MacKenzie River Pizza in Kalispell for more Huckleberry beer (it wasn’t as flavorful) and pizza. It was a good, air-conditioned meal we needed. Then we went back to the North 40 Resort to rest and wind down. I did consider driving back to Glacier for one last hike, or south to Flathead Lake for a fishing spot, but decided it was wise to just chill for a bit.

After lazing away awhile I decided to walk the short trail at the North 40 Resort. I did see a deer but it bounded away too quickly to photograph. I also realized I had no photos for the day so I took some pictures of the wildflowers.

Day 7: Flathead Lake, Bozeman, and Billings

I had plans for the day and but we were all a bit slow getting up and out for the long drive ahead. Eventually we made it to a Kalispell coffee shop and then proceeded south along the shores of Flathead Lake.

I did not know until I was driving along the shore of Flathead Lake that it was a prime cherry-growing region. After seeing a few dozen cherry stands I eventually pulled over and bought some cherries. My youngest chose Rainier cherries.

After acquiring the local produce we continued to what I decided for. a stop on Flathead Lake at Yellow Bay. I wanted at least one stop on Flathead Lake to enjoy the scenery and water before continuing on with the drive.

Flathead Lake

It was very windy and the bay on the eastern shore was just not the ideal spot to admire Flathead Lake. After about an hour of trying to get the most out of the shoreline walk we returned to the car to continue on our drive to Bozeman and the Museum of the Rockies.

Museum of the Rockies

We arrived at the Museum of the Rockies with 45 minutes to spare before closing time but we refused to be denied. We got in for free at the late hour but still took in the Dinosaur Hall, the Da Vinci exhibit, and the Living History Farm.

This is an outstanding museum and it pained everyone that we AGAIN had to race through another great museum. The Dinosaur exhibits are among the best I’ve ever seen. The Da Vinci traveling exhibit was cool and the Living History Fram was fun and engaging. We missed out on the Planetarium and barely had time to read the displays. Should I have skipped the stop on Flathead Lake? Probably.

Afterward it was time for dinner and we wanted something good. We chose the Montana Ale Works. It was a converted train depot and they too had huckleberry beer.

Afterward, we completed the relatively easy drive east to Billings and our hotel for the night, a Best Western. There was a television. I hadn’t seen one of those in…days. And didn’t miss it. The hotel was nice though and they were able to give us a roll-away bed for added space.

Day 8: Billings to Home

On our last day we had another long drive to make from Billings and across Wyoming to our home in Colorado.

Pictograph Cave State Park

We gassed up and ate a breakfast at the Cracker Barrel, we made a short stop at Pictograph Cave. Sometimes for fun I let my youngest make our GoPro video and narrate our activities as we go. He’s usually pretty entertaining unintentionally.

I was truthfully a bit underwhelmed by the cave art viewable at Pictograph Cave. It was barely visible, if at all. But it was still good to get out and walk a bit with a long drive ahead.

We continued on past Sheridan and onward to a museum we could actually take our time visiting: The National Trails Museum in Casper, Wyoming.

National Trails Interpretive Center

I don’t know why they are starting to call museums interpretive centers, but this was a good museum and well worth the stop halfway through the drive. My kids learned quite a lot (and so did I) about the Oregon Trail, the Mormon Trail and the Pony Express at the museum.

And we didn’t have to rush through it. My son used a tablet to go through the quiz game and earned a certificate for completing it with a good score.

After leaving the museum we ate lunch and completed the 300 mile drive back to Colorado.

It was a long, but fun and memorable journey. My truck suffered an endless battery of bug debris and a scrape on its running board on the Going to the Sun Road but was a champ the whole way. We all had our share of wear and tear and my wife managed to get a respiratory bug (from a moose?), but it was a great trip nonetheless.