Black Hills Roadtrip 2026: Part V

Spearfish Canyon

Spearfish Canyon Lodge

Spending the night at Spearfish Canyon Lodge was a big relief after the less-than-spectacular experience we had with Under Canvas Mount Rushmore.

We slept well in the Muir Suite. For us, this was the ideal place (quiet, comfortable, and right next to trails and scenery).

I did wake up fairly early (5:30 AM) because I wanted to take in a morning run to Roughlock Falls. The trailhead is just past the lodge building on the south-east side.

Roughlock Falls

I decided to run the one-mile trail to the falls and back. It was a very nice experience, with woodlands surrounding the trail and the towering walls of Spearfish Canyon rising above. It kind of reminded me of Zion, albeit more wooded and with cooler summer temperatures.

Roughlock Falls was my favorite of the three we saw in Spearfish Canyon (the others being Bridalveil Falls and Spearfish Canyon Falls).

The falls can be viewed from three separate platforms at different elevations. You will want to stop at all three to fully appreciate the falls.

Roughlock Falls Lower Viewpoint
Roughlock Falls Upper Viewpoint

The falls create an interesting microclimate of their own, owing to the spray the falls deposit in the canyon. The falls roll over moss-covered rocks and between thick groves of trees and flowering bushes. The falls look like something you’d imagine in the Pacific Northwest.

I started jogging back and noticed I wasn’t alone on the trail. My trail companion, however, was a bit shy and decided to run off trail and into the foliage rather than stop and talk.

Black Bear in Spearfish Canyon

A bear encounter is always a a good way to close out a roadtrip.

After my morning fun, I returned to the room and showered while Shelley and Evan enjoyed a few more minutes of rest. You can decide who had a better start to the morning between the three of us.

An hour later we all got packed up and started home.

We wanted coffee though, and the best way to get something more than regular black was to first drive back north to Spearfish.

Spearfish

We decided to try a small coffee stand near the highway called KLYM Coffee and Donuts. The coffee was good enough but the donuts were tiny.

With our coffee needs covered we headed west into Wyoming for the drive home.

Wyoming

The drive south through Sundance, Four Corners, and Newcastle on highways 585 and 85 was pretty scenic and enjoyable.

Once past Newcastle, Wyoming changes from mountains and forests to dry, windswept stretches of rangeland.

I often hear people speak negatively about driving through Wyoming, but for me, it’s the stark difference between northern and southern Wyoming that stands out.

Yes, I’m not a huge fan of the endless, dry, and windy stretches of southern Wyoming. But northern Wyoming just looks and feels different.

From the northeast corner where the Black Hills give way to Devils Tower, to the central Bighorn Mountains and Bighorn Canyon, and finally the Beartooth Mountains and the national parks of Yellowstone and Grand Teton in the northwest, northern Wyoming represents some of the best scenery in the country. To drive east to west across northern Wyoming is a true adventure.

In all areas of Wyoming the towns are very small and dining options are extremely limited. We were going to stop in Lusk for lunch, but didn’t find anywhere that we were interested in going.

We continued on another sixty miles to Torrington and had a late lunch at Arby’s.

After lunch, we continued south and re-entered Colorado. The roads were much busier and the weather much hotter.

Final Thoughts

Overall, this was a fun trip in a year where we’ve had to dial back on travel (for a number of reasons).

It was great to get back to the Black Hills and I’m pretty sure we’ll be back again within a few years. The Black Hills are full of fun and interesting sites, and we got the chance to discover a few more on this journey.

I would like to go even further next time and visit Theodore Roosevelt National Park in North Dakota. I’ve only once been in North Dakota (Grand Forks in 1998), and 99% of the state is unexplored. And the majority of South Dakota remains to be explored as well.

Black Hills Roadtrip 2026: Part IV

We woke up after a third and final night at Under Canvas Mount Rushmore and were glad to be leaving for a new destination on our last night of the trip.

I went to the showers early and noticed that the towel bin was barely stocked. I grabbed one for myself and proceeded to take another uncomfortable, one-handed shower. After finishing I walked back to the tent to begin packing up and carrying luggage out to the car.

When Shelley and Evan went to take showers, there were literally no towels left. At 7:30 AM. Add that to the fact that two of the shower stalls were out of order and you get the overall level of attentiveness and upkeep that the resort was offering.

I was going to walk up to the host tent and let them know that there were no towels (and to also convey the unfortunate fact that they were doing a really crappy job running the place), but Shelley and Evan just wanted to get going. They would get a shower later in a more comfortable place.

So do we recommend Under Canvas Mount Rushmore? Heck no.

We pulled into Keystone and decided to check TripAdvisor for a list of breakfast restaurants. We had a bit of a drive that day and checked what was available along the route. We stopped at one in Rapid City.

Rapid City

We chose Millstone Family Restaurant which was pretty crowded, but also pretty good. It was Father’s Day and there was a short wait to get seated, but once we did, we had everything we needed (pancakes, eggs, bacon, etc) to start out our day.

After breakfast, we started northwest on the I-90 toward Spearfish and from there we would be continuing on to Devils Tower.

Spearfish

Northeast Wyoming is sparsely populated and there are few options for gas and food. Thus, we made it a point to stop in Spearfish first for gas and coffee. I had spurned the black coffee available at Millstone in favor of trying out a coffee house in Spearfish.

I was definitely curious to see Spearfish since it seems like the kind of small town that has all the right things going for it: a historic downtown with modern eateries and businesses, proximity to the outdoors, and easy access to Rapid City and the I-90 corridor.

I liked the town right away. And the name of the town is cool.

We stopped at Blackbird Espresso which was clearly a popular spot among the locals (who were an interesting mix too). The coffees took a few minutes, but they were good. I always like visiting local coffee shops when we are out on the road.

After getting some coffee it was time to drive west toward one of nature’s most bizarre geologic wonders: Devils Tower.

Devils Tower National Monument

We visited Devils Tower in 2013 when Evan was in a stroller, so for him it was like the first time. I wanted to come back and see it for the third time in my life (my first visit was in 1988 as a school kid).

Driving in we had to wait about 45 minutes just to enter the parking area because traffic is metered to avoid congestion. We were in no hurry so it wasn’t a problem, but do expect delays in the summer months.

The tower is one of those sights that you just can’t believe is real. It just rises as a massive cylinder above the surrounding countryside.

The tower is the remnants of a volcano that once stood in place of the tower. The tower is a volcanic plug of solidified basalt that formed in the neck of the volcano. When the rest of the volcano eroded away, the basalt column remained.

There are two loop trails around the monument from the visitor center. The inner loop is a paved path of about a mile that circles the monument and offers views throughout. However, it is much more popular with visitors and doesn’t explore the surrounding landscapes.

The other option is the 2.5 mile Red Beds Trail, which I elected to take as an alternative hike. Shelley’s knee was bothering her from bicycling the prior day, so I hiked it alone, while Evan and her did the inner loop.

The Red Beds Trail

To access the Red Beds Trail, simply take the marked detour off the inner loop trail near the visitor center. The trail deviates away from the crowds and you’ll soon see that there is more to Devils Tower National Monument, including the Red Beds.

The attached videos show two locations on the trail, the first about one mile from the trailhead, and the second passing through the Red Beds section.

Both loop trails return to the visitor center parking lot so it is easy to rendezvous if you have hikers on both trails simultaneously.

After completing the hike it was time to drive back to Spearfish for some Father’s Day lunch.

Spearfish

Once back in Spearfish I routed us to a place I had found on TripAdvisor before our departure: Sawyer Brewing Company. The description was just exactly what I wanted, a place that served food and drinks with a nice view.

Well, unfortunately it was raining so the crowd was packed together inside. And that made the interior loud and crowded. Not quite what I wanted.

Add to that meh pizza, and meh service, and too much noise, and pushy people seated behind us, and it was not quite great overall.

Before heading down Spearfish Canyon for the final stop of the day, we stopped off at Walmart for some supplies. Spearfish Canyon is pretty, but there aren’t many services available.

Spearfish Canyon

I had never heard of Spearfish Canyon before researching this trip and I’m glad I found it. It’s yet another scenic area of the Black Hills, but one that is a bit more tucked away and quiet.

We first stopped at Bridalveil Falls which is an easy pull-off stop on the road. There are many Bridalveil Falls in the US, including the one in Yosemite.

Unfortunately this one was lacking the water volume it might have had in a snowier year and was therefore, not quite as impressive as we hoped.

But don’t worry, the falls and the views in Spearfish Canyon get better the further south you drive.

Spearfish Canyon Lodge

We continued on to our lodging for the night at Spearfish Canyon Lodge.

We liked the lodge right away. We had the Muir Suite which had two queen beds and a fireplace on the main level. It looked out on an expansive lawn.

We ate at the restaurant next door called The Latchstring. We weren’t starving but decided to have some beef stew anyway. It was good.

If you choose not to eat at the Latchstring the only other options are 30 miles away. So keep that in mind.

Spearfish Canyon Falls

After eating I took the quick hike down to Spearfish Canyon Falls. I loved it.

After enjoying the falls I hiked back up the short trail and back to the lodge.

I left one local falls for a hike early the next morning: Roughlock Falls.

With that we went to bed and finally enjoyed a comfortable night’s sleep. And had plenty of towels for showering.