Day 7: The Tetons

I woke up at 5:30 AM to eat a quick breakfast in the cabin and gather up my backpack and gear for the Lake Solitude hike. Shelley and Evan had a couple more hours to sleep before they were to meet the ranger by the Colter Bay visitor center for their 2 hour hike.

I stopped off quickly at the Colter Bay service station for yet more air for my tire, then drove south toward Jenny Lake, hoping to be on the 7AM ferry boat across the lake.

As I was approaching the Jackson Lake Dam, two grizzlies ran across the road right in front of my truck and into the brush on the side of the road. I stopped and grabbed my camera, hearing them rustling in the bushes.

I saw them briefly once more from behind before they took off into the dense brush where I couldn’t see them any longer. I waited a few minutes longer before deciding to drive on. And called Shelley to tell her about the grizzlies.

Jenny Lake

Once I arrived at the Jenny Lake visitor center parking area I found it was already half full of cars. I parked fairly close to the ferry boat entrance and then got in the line. I wouldn’t be on the 7AM ferry, but did make it onto the 7:30 ferry.

Technically, you don’t need to take the ferry to access the Cascade Canyon trailhead that leads to Lake Solitude, but it will cut 2.5 miles off the trip in either direction. However, if you want an earlier start you should skip the ferry and just add the extra miles to your hike.

The Cascade Canyon Trail to Lake Solitude

Arriving at the boat dock for Cascade Canyon I was in a familiar place. We’d started this trail twice before in 2010 and 2019. In 2010 my eldest son was soon to be four-year-old and it was literally snowing on the boat ride over Jenny Lake, so we went no farther than Inspiration Point (but saw a cool moose there).

In 2019 my eldest son and I made it halfway down the Cascade Canyon trail when he was 12 going on 13. We had a nice hike and saw a moose cow and calf, but he was pretty tired after that distance and so we cut the hike short.

In planning this trip to Yellowstone and Grand Teton I was pretty much dead set on making this hike all the way to Lake Solitude, short of a monumental blizzard. I had already heard the trail reports of a lot of snow along the route higher up, but I was mentally prepared for it.

The first several miles were a breeze. Beautiful weather, beautiful scenery. A few miles beyond Inspiration Point the trail somewhat levels out too, making it a fairly easy-going hike. There was a cool marmot, Hidden Falls was rushing, and I was making good time.

Then there was a big gust of wind and the skies began to darken. To save weight in my backpack (due to my already tired back), I made a really stupid decision not to pack my rain jacket. I pretty much bought it just for this hike. But there was no rain in the forecast. But that forecast wasn’t for this high up.

Oh well. Let it rain. I won’t stop. At least not yet.

There was a moose cow and calf on the trail. I’ve been on this trail three times and every time I’ve seen moose. And it added to the baby animal list for the trip!

I was actually getting pretty wet the further I went, and stopped under several conifers to eat and wait out the rain a little. I was getting a tad dejected, believing that the rain would only worsen and inevitably force me to turn back.

But despite the rain, I was pretty determined to continue as long and as far as I could. Thus far I had encountered no snow, and when I got to the trail junction that leads to Lake Solitude, I pressed onward passing several hikers that were turning back at that point.

Then…hallelujah! The rain ceased and the clouds began to part. I began to smile with a feeling of redemption. I might make it all the way after all. No matter if my long sleeve t-shirt was soaked.

The next several miles were some of the most beautiful hiking miles I’ve ever done. Up there with Glacier for sure.

I could turn 360 degrees around and see astounding beauty in every direction (watch the video linked above).

Not long after that, however, I started to hit the snow fields. At first they were just stretches of hard snow across the trail. Then they grew longer and deeper. They hid the trail entirely. And they were exhausting.

Several hikers ahead and behind me began to turn around. This was slow, hard trudging. I thought about turning around too. But then what? I needed to finish this.

I finally came to a little sign half buried in the snow that said “Lake Solitude 200 Yards”. I could make it another 200 yards uphill in the snow.

A long stretch of snow surrounded the mostly frozen-over Lake Solitude. But I carefully approached the shoreline and felt the mountain lake waters in my hand. Bucket list hike achieved.

This felt good. The whole trip felt good. This hike was important to me and really capped what I felt was a very memorable and successful trip. I needed to make this hike and I had done it.

The hike back, going downhill in the snow, was much easier. Once I passed the last snowbank I could relax and just amble down the trail, offering advice to others hoping to make it to Lake Solitude. Yes, you can do it.. But it’s not easy.

When I got back to the boat dock I found a line of people stretching quite a ways up the hill. There was an hour and a half wait to board the ferry. Really?

My back was really killing me and I could barely tolerate the pain of just standing in a long line. I talked to fellow travelers who had no idea just how far I had hiked and had been content to just see Inspiration Point.

At one point a black bear appeared near the trail and many of us left the line briefly to see if we could see it. I saw it, just for a moment. Not long enough to photograph it.

I debated leaving the line and hiking around the lake. Many did. But the longer we waited, the more it felt like a huge waste of time to have been in it. I went from hiking 14.5 miles through snow, to now standing in an amusement park line.

Finally, I got my turn, boarded the ferry and sank onto the seat. Ah, relief at last for my back. Once back at the opposite shore I trudged back to my truck, set my backpack on the opposite seat, and called Shelley. I was on my way back to Colter Bay.

Colter Bay

Once back at Colter Bay I was happy to see Shelley and Evan and hear about their ranger-led hike. They would take me on the trail tomorrow to see the bear claw marks and frogs and other fun sights they had seen on Colter Bay’s loop trail.

What we all were was hungry, tired, and ready to celebrate. So we went to Colter Bay’s main restaurant. A place we had eaten at before in 2017 and 2019: John Colter’s Ranch House.

We had a nice waitress from Kentucky and again I thought of my eldest son who is 18 going on 19. Wouldn’t it be cool for him to work in the parks next summer? The staff looked happy and they were all his age. I wish I had done that when I was a college student.

After three beers and plenty of food we walked back to our cabin to crash for the night. I really was pretty tired. I needed a good night of rest now. And I was glad we still had one more full day to enjoy before heading home.